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Wednesday, February 14, 2018

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for FEB 17, 2018

WORLD WINE WATCH TOP 20/20 WINES: 20 under $20 and 20 over $20 for FEB 17,  2018
 
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. My "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at http://www.deantudor.com since 1994.
These notes for wines available through the LCBO Vintages (on a bi-weekly basis)  can always be found at http://www.gothicepicures.blogspot.ca/ or at  http://www.deantudor.com
 
Scores are a combination of MVC (Modal Varietal Character, e.g. a Southern Rhone tastes like a Southern Rhone) and QPR (Quality/Price Ratio value in the marketplace above or below its price).
 
THIS MONTH'S SPECIAL FINDS --
 
R+82024    MONASTERIO DE LAS VIÑAS GRAN RESERVA    DOP Cariñena        2010    $17.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 92
R+652446    CERBAIA BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO    DOCG        2007    $43.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 93
 
20 under $20
=========
W+89029    TAWSE SKETCHES OF NIAGARA RIESLING    VQA Niagara Peninsula        2015    $18.95     10% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+536532    CANTINE DUE PALME SANGAETANO PRIMITIVO DI MANDURIA    DOP        2015    $17.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+536672    PIATTELLI RESERVE TORRONTÉS    Cafayate Valley, Salta        2016    $14.95 14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+542365    SANTA EMA GRAN RESERVA CHARDONNAY    Leyda Valley        2016    $16.95  MVC/QPR:  89
W+673053    DOMAINE DES ASPES CHARDONNAY/VIOGNIER    IGP Pays d'Oc     2016    $16.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+177824    13TH STREET GAMAY NOIR    VQA Niagara Peninsula        2016    $19.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
R+542696    TORMENTOSO CABERNET SAUVIGNON    WO Coastal Region    MAN Vintners    2015    $16.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+230391    CHÂTEAU LAGRANGE    AC Lussac-Saint-Émilion    Famille Courrech, Exploitante    2013    $19.95    13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+469627    CHÂTEAU GRANGE COCHARD VIEILLES VIGNES MORGON    AP        2014    $16.95    13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+482455    S. DELAFONT MOSAIQUE AP Languedoc 2016    $17.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+526665    GABRIEL MEFFRE ST. VINCENT CÔTES DU RHÔNE    AP        2015    $16.95 13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+354134    CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE LA FORÊT AP Fronton    Philip Grant, prop.    2014    $14.95    12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+536326    FEUDI SALENTINI 125 PRIMITIVO DEL SALENTO    IGP        2015    $14.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+56267    REMO FARINA MONTECORNA RIPASSO VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO SUPERIORE    DOC        2015    $19.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+251439    FIELDING ESTATE BOTTLED RIESLING    VQA Beamsville Bench, Niagara Escarpment        2016    $19.95    10.8% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+374819    KEINT-HE PORTAGE CHARDONNAY    VQA Prince Edward County    2014    $25.00     12.7% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+656710    D'ARENBERG THE MONEY SPIDER ROUSSANNE    McLaren Vale, South Australia        2016    $19.95    12.7% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
W+336958    FOWLES STONE DWELLERS CHARDONNAY    Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria        2016    $19.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+591313    MALIVOIRE GAMAY VQA Niagara Peninsula 2016 $17.95 12% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
 
20 over $20
=========
W+511428    REDSTONE CHARDONNAY    VQA Niagara Peninsula        2013    $25.70         13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
W+395699    BERINGER LUMINUS CHARDONNAY    Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley        2015    $44.95    14.3% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
W+146951    FOLIE À DEUX CHARDONNAY    Russian River Valley, Sonoma County        2015    $24.95    14.1% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+461699    HENRY OF PELHAM SPECK FAMILY RESERVE BACO NOIR    VQA Ontario        2015    $24.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+256768    BLACK STALLION CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Napa Valley        2014    $39.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+382267    BUENA VISTA THE COUNT FOUNDER'S RED    Sonoma County    Boisset Family Estates Collection    2014    $26.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+942599    RAVENSWOOD LODI OLD VINE ZINFANDEL    Lodi        2015    $21.95 14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
R+29207    ROBERT MONDAVI OAKVILLE CABERNET SAUVIGNON    Napa Valley        2013    $47.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+167189    DANDELION VINEYARDS LIONHEART OF THE BAROSSA SHIRAZ    Barossa, South Australia        2016    $21.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+927657    JOHN'S BLEND MARGARETE'S SHIRAZ    Langhorne Creek, South Australia        2013    $39.95    14.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+962977    CHÂTEAU SÉNÉJAC AC Haut-Médoc  2015    $29.95    13.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 89
R+527986    DOMAINE ROUX PÈRE & FILS SAINT-AUBIN LES FRIONNES 1ER CRU    AC        2015    $46.95    13% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+981787    DOMAINE DU GRAPILLON D'OR GIGONDAS    AC    Céline et Bernard Chauvet, Prop.    2015    $32.95    15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+941740    LA CRAU DE MA MÈRE CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE    AP    Famille Mayard    2015    $41.95    15% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+530485    SORDO GABUTTI BAROLO DOCG    2012    $68.95    14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 90
R+225540    SARTORI CORTE BRÀ AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO    DOC        2010    $39.95     15.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 91
W+537852    CANTINE DI MARZO GRECO DI TUFO    DOCG     2015 $19.95 12.5% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+48710    REDHAWK GRATEFUL RED PINOT NOIR    Willamette Valley    2015    $21.95 13.7% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
R+543728    OTAZU RESERVA CLÁSICO DO Navarra 2009    $24.95     14% ABV, MVC/QPR: 88
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com
 

Tuesday, February 6, 2018

FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JANUARY 2018 [published monthly since 2000]

FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS IN REVIEW FOR JANUARY 2018 [published monthly since 2000]
======================================
 
By Dean Tudor, Gothic Epicures Writing, deantudor@deantudor.com
Creator of Canada's leading wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.ca
 
These food and wine book reviews are always available at www.deantudor.com and http://gothicepicures.blogspot.ca
 
 
But first, these words:
 
Most prices listed below are in US currency as printed on the cover. I do this because MOST of my readers are American. CAN prices are inserted for Canadian produced books. In these times of US-Canadian currency fluctuations about parity AND online bookstore discount (plus the addition of GST or HST) prices will vary upwards or downwards every day.
 
 
ALLEZ CUISINE!! [even though it has been a short month's worth of books]
 
 
* FOOD AND DRINK BOOKS
  ++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
1.THE BOOKLOVERS' GUIDE TO WINE (Books and Books Press, 2017, 390 pages, ISBN 978-1-63353-606-7 $19.95 USD paperbound) is by Patrick Alexander who teaches a six week program  at Books & Books in Coral Gables Florida. He's done it for the past six years, so he put out his "notes" in book form. It's an introduction to the history, mysteries, and literary pleasures of drinking wine. He's got a nifty literate accompaniment to the traditional wine and food pairings. It's a global wine tour, with pairings such as Charles Dickens with cabernet sauvignon, Jane Austen with chardonnay, Shakespeare with sherry (Falstaff's dry sack), and JRR Tolkien with albarino (the newest hot white grape from Portugal and Spain). Very entertaining package that begins with tasting wine, making wine, wine history, continues with old world and new world (Canada gets icewine, but not in the index), grape varieties, and food matches. Reference material includes lists of Bordeaux appellations, the Grand Crus of Burgundy, and the standings in the two 1976 Judgment of Paris smackdowns.
Audience and level of use: beginning wine lovers, millennials.
Some interesting or unusual facts: "I can see you that you know your wine. Most of the guests who stay here wouldn't know the difference between Bordeaux and Claret" - John Cleese as Basil Fawlty.
The downside to this book: it arrived too late for my annual holiday book gift issue.
The upside to this book: very readable account. More details at info@mango.bz.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 
 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
 
* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...
  +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 
 
 
2.THE PLAGIARIST IN THE KITCHEN (Unbound, 2017, 176 pages, ISBN 9781783522408, $42.95 CAD hardbound) is by the redoubtable Jonathan Meades, the UK journalist, TV personality, and filmmaker who also specializes in food. He says that this book will be the only cookbook he will ever write. Meanwhile, as this book does exist, it is his take in praise of the unoriginal recipe. Very very entertaining and provocative. It was funded by readers through the writer website "Unbound". You pledge for it in advance, and it gets published once it receives critical mass. This particular title was distributed in Canada by Penguin Random House. He says it "is an anti-cookbook, a recipe book that is also an explicit paean to the avoidance of culinary originality, to the daylight robbery of recipes, to hijacking techniques and methods, to the notion that in the kitchen there is nothing new and nor can there be anything new. It's all theft." So: ultimately, it is a basic book of workable standard classic recipes with his pithy and enlightening comments. Because it is British, it is all in metric, with no tables of equivalents or conversion charts. There is a an index, plus four pages of three columns each which feature the names of contributors/subscribers. There is a short bibliography of "books referred to" and presumably borrowed from. Most of the books are old, and most of the authors have since passed on. So there. The book could have been improved if it also used US volume measurements in the recipes; this would improve sales in the last remaining country on the planet to ignore metric. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
3.RETRO RECIPES FROM THE '50S AND '60S (St. Martin's Griffin, 2017, 228 pages, ISBN 978-1-250-14632-8 $19.99 US paperbound) is by Addie Gundry, a chef who has worked for Boulud, Keller, Stewart, et al in management, restaurant openings, editorial, brand development. She also won a cooking match on the Food Network. Here she give us 104 vintage appetizers, dinners and drinks from the past – 60 years ago. She also has some historical notes, such as sourcing the first printed recipe for a party cheese ball to the Minneapolis Star-Journal in 1944. Or the brunch stalwart Monte Cristo, first offered in southern California in the 1950s. This is the stuff that North Americans grew up with at that time, the food that millennial grandparents ate at home. Yes, people ate at home then, in families gathered around the table with no phones, TV sets, or other distractions. Expect "classics" such as crab puffs, shrimp cocktail, meatloaf, cheese fondue, deviled eggs, quiche, SOS, Waldorf salad, ambrosia salad, grasshopper pie, and more. The book could have been improved if it also used metric in the recipes, or at least had a metric conversion chart. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
4.STIRRING SLOWLY (Square Peg, 2016, 280 pages, ISBN 978-0-22410165-3 $42.95 CA hardbound) is by Georgina Hayden, a food writer who worked in the kitchens with Jamie Oliver for a decade. And of course it comes with an endorsing foreword by Oliver. The book was originally published in late 2016 but is now available to the North American market via Penguin Random House. It is a basic book on comforting food for those who love to cook, that is, the preps are not slapped together just before consumption and the preps are nourishing and healing as well. Major topics include bowl food, quick & light, slow & hearty, veggies, and baking. Meat is included. Typical dishes include chilled avocado soup with ginger,  Jerusalem artichoke with thyme barley risotto, caraway honey and buttermilk buns, sticky harissa carrots and beets with dates, pomegranate chicken skewers, chorizo and tomato and chickpeas on toast, and green chili greens with cashews. One my faves is "pho for one". Readers of my reviews know I excoriate publishers for lack of metric data, but in this case, the book could have been improved if it also used avoirdupois in the recipes, or at least had a conversion chart for the American market. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
 
5.CANADA'S CULINARY HERITAGE (Klorifil Editions, 2017, 229 pages, ISBN 978-2-9810783-7-7 $39.95 CA hardbound) is a publisher's collection of some 100 recipes from 100 celebrities in celebration for Canada 150, for the benefit of Breakfast Club of Canada (and helping to provide 165,000 daily breakfasts to children). Too bad they couldn't make it 150 recipes since it is Canada 150, but of course that would have increased the price. Preps are divided into apps, entrees, "this and that" and desserts. There is an index to personalities and their contributions, which includes k.d.lang (Canadian s'more), Premier Kathleen Wynne's ginger snaps, Lisa Laflamme's family cheesecake, Susur Lee's Singaporean style slaw, Lynne Crawford's honey whiskey glazed chicken, Ron James' moose meat marinade, Brian Orser's beer can chicken, and Wayne Gretzky's grandmother's perogies. An interesting mosaic of Canadian food. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
 
6.CULINARY TREASURES FROM AROUND THE WORLD (Klorifil Editions, 2017, 213 pages, ISBN 978-2-9810783-5-3 $39.95 CA hardbound) is a publisher's collection of some 92 recipes from 92 countries in celebration for Canada 150, for the benefit of Hire – Embauche Immigrants Ottawa. The source materials are authentic recipes from diplomats posted in Canada. From Afghanistan (kabuli palau) to Vietnam (fowl congee), with stops along the way for Estonian Lenten breads, Indian samosa, Italian panforte margherita, Jamaican ackee and saltfish, South Korean kimchi, Peruvian ceviche and Egyptian fattah. Another interesting mosaic of food that immigrants bring to Canada. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
7.HOW TO ROAST EVERYTHING (America's Test Kitchen, 2018, 406 pages, ISBN 978-1-945256-22-6 $35 US hardbound) is from the creative team at the TV show America's Test Kitchen. It is also a guide to building flavour into meat, veggies, fruit, and other roasted items. Like all the ATK books, it is a definitive reference tool There are many years of experiences here. The primer start with roasting basics and then moves on to "ten essential roasts", which is just about the most that regular  people at home would do: these are the classics of bone-in chicken breasts, butterflied chicken, roast chicken, roast turkey breast, roast beef with gravy, slow-roasted beef, roasted pork tenderloin, glazed pork roast, roasted bone-in pork rib roast, and roasted salmon fillets. Plus some 15 variations of rubs and sauces. But no leg of lamb, or any lamb roast. You'll have to see the pork & lamb chapter for that, and there are just a half dozen. The really engaging chapters deal with grill roasting, veggies and fruits. It's a well-priced nifty book full of details, tips, and photos, and includes the equipment needed – the usual ATK approach. The book could have been improved and have had wider sales if it also used metric in the recipes, but at least it had metric conversion charts. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
 
* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...
  ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
 
...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
 
8.THE QUINTESSENTIAL QUINOA COOKBOOK; eat great, lose weight, feel healthy (Skyhorse Publishing, 2011, 2018, 223 pages, ISBN 978-1-5107-2223-1, $14.99US papercovers) is by Wendy Polisi, with photos and nutritional info for every recipe, gluten-free desserts, and quinoa recipes for kids. It's a reissue of the 2011 book with updates. She's given alternative ingredients and prep methods for many dishes, including vegan, sugar-free, and quick and easy. She's got two recipes for gluten-free flour blends – an all-purpose quinoa flour blend and a quinoa cake flour blend. These can be used without fear. The book is arranged by course, breakfast through apps and snacks, salads, wraps and tacos and sandwiches, mains, baking and desserts. About 100 dishes are here, but there is more at www.cookbookquinoa.net. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Some interesting preps include quinoa pizza; broccoli quinoa salad; Mediterranean lettuce cups; and smoked chile rellenos. Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
9.ROSE MURRAY'S COMFORTABLE KITCHEN COOKBOOK. Rev. ed. (Whitecap, 1991, 2018, 192 pages, ISBN 978-1-77050301-4 $29.95 CAD paper covers) is by Rose Murray, a Taste Canada Hall of Famer and award-winning food writer appearing in print (over 10 cookbooks and scores of articles) and broadcasting in both radio and TV. It was originally published in 1991 (McGraw-Hill Ryerson). As the subtitle notes, this is "easy, feel-good food for family and friends". It's been modernized and with new food shots and layouts. It's an easy going classic for the home cook, with 230 preps, from apps to soups to sides, salads, and desserts, all wrapped around "comforting main courses". Typical dishes include upside-down pear gingerbread, veal and onion ragout with gremolata garnish, dandelion salad, warm lamb salad, wild rice lemon pilaf, homemade BBQ sauce, Thai thighs, cheesy meat loaf, and sweet potato party flan. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. There are multiple recipes on each page, and only a few of the preps have photos – both of which help keep the book's price low. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
10.FIX-IT AND FORGET-IT COOKBOOK. Revised & updated. (Good Books, 2012, 2018, 702 pages, ISBN 978-1-68099-301-1 $29.99 US hardbound) is by Phyllis Good, who has sold over 12 million such books for the slow cooker. This is a revision of the 2012 book, which was already a revision of an earlier book. Her 2012 book had sold more than 5 million copies, but there are changes and additions here:  100 new recipes for slow cookers; "Prep Time," "Cooking Time," and "Ideal Slow-Cooker Size" are included for each recipe; new data on "Substitute Ingredients for When You're in a Pinch", "Equivalent Measurements", "Kitchen Tools and Equipment; new tips and tricks for making the most of your slow cooker, spread throughout the book; and a revised and improved Index. So here are 700 slow cooker recipes to fulfill every need. The book could have been improved if it also used metric in the recipes, but at least there is a large type page of  metric conversions. Quality/price rating: 88.
----------------------------------------------------

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Monday, February 5, 2018

The Event: annual dinner of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada

The Date and Time: Monday January 29, 2018   6:15 - 10PM
The Event: annual dinner of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
The Venue: Mad Crush Wine Bar, College Street
The Target Audience: members of the WWCC and their guests, all set to try out the new Mad Crush (Jamieson Kerr's new spin on his former Crush Wine Bar). We are grateful for their setup, service, and no charge for corkage!
The Wines: 14 different wines were on show
 
Reception wines:  13th Street bubbly VQA
                  Creekside 2016 Sauvignon Blanc bubbly VQA
                  Colio Lily Rose VQA Ontario bubbly
 
Dinner wines from members:
    –- Alkoomi 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Frankland River, Western Australia
    -- Domaine de Bachellery 2007 Pays D'Oc  Grenache fut de chene
    -- Fabre Montmayou 2013 Gran Riserva Malbec
    –- Chateau Marquis D'Alesme Grand Cru Classe, AC Margaux 2005.
    -- 2016 Henry of Pelham Estate Chardonnay
    -- 2012 Legends Estates Petit Verdot.
    -– Quinta da Jardinete  Merlot/Aragonez  2010 Azores (Portugal;  not                   available in Canada)
    -- Fresh Sparkling Rose  Gamay/Riesling   VQA  Ontario   (April)                                         --  -- Novas Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere  Chile    LCBO #434662
    -- Magnotta Blanc de Blancs Sparkling VQA ( Winery and Magnotta Stores)
    -- 1987 Inniskillin Heuriger Nouveau (made by Karl Kaiser).
 
The Food: we began with a series of hors d'oeuvre which went perfectly well with the sparklers. And then we continued with a choice of apps, mains and dessert. I had the sweetbreads and the lamb and the cheese, and samples of all the wines.
 
Hors d'oeuvre
 
Truffled Pecorino Potatoes
Roast Cauliflower Cakes & Pomegranate
Fried Salt Cod & Green Peppercorns
 
Apps
Winter Parsley Root Puree
OR
Maple-Aleppo Glaze Crispy Sweetbreads  [not too sweet]
OR
Harrissa Spiced Raw Kale Salad
 
 
Mains
Bourguignon Canadian Beef Port Steak
With Confit Garlic Pomme Purée
OR
Pappardelle & Wild Mushrooms
With Grey Owl & Roast Walnuts
OR
Slow Charcoal Roast Leg of Canadian Lamb
With Aubergine & Chevre Melktert
 
 
Dessert
Apple Tarte Tatin & Ice Cream
OR
Cheese & Biscuits 
 
The Downside: the night of a big snow storm that eventually petered out.
The Upside: a chance to break bread with wine-writing colleagues and with nobody from the trade around.
The Contact Person: deantudor@yahoo.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 93.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com