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Wednesday, April 29, 2015

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MAY 2, 2015

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MAY 2, 2015
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here.
 
NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting. It is getting more difficult to endorse wines under $20 for the simple reason that the LCBO does not release many of them into the Vintages program, ones that can be deemed to be worthy of your consideration. So I will now just ADD some "under $25" suggestions, along with point values.
 
 
====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Famiglia Bianchi Chardonnay 2014 IP Mendoza, +1461, $16.95: up a buck (what else is new?) over the 2013 release of last year, but more wood expression from the barrel fermentation. 14% ABV. I'm buying two cases, so save me some...QPR: 91.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $25:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Mahi Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough, +63941, $19.95: good citric character, particularly lime, with herbs. Balanced savvy, concentrated tones. Best with mahi mahi? Just sayin' 13.5% ABV. QPR:89.
2.Kaimira Estate Brightwater Chardonnay 2012 Nelson, +408641, $19.95: well-priced aged chardonnay with whiff of wood cream due to barrel fermentation and barrel aging for 12 months and integration for another two years. 14% ABV. QPR: 89.
3.Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2012 Mosel, +411249, $22.95. QPR: 90.
4.Ruppertsberger Linsenbusch Gewurztraminer Spatlese 2014 Pfalz, +320473, $17.95: dense gewurztraminer character, a reasonable alternative to Alsatian gewurztraminer (many of which are over-the-top in density and sugars). MVC all the way for concentrated flavours. 11% ABV. QPR: 89.
5.Calamus Riesling 2013 VQA Vinemount Ridge, +158642, $16.95: not as sweet in the mouth as (M) indicates in the catalogue, but bearing in at 11.6% ABV. Good minerality. QPR: 89.
6.Gustave Lorentz Reserve Gewurztraminer 2013 Alsace, +408195, $21.95. QPR: 90.
7.Beringer Chardonnay 2012 Napa, +84988, $22.95. QPR: 90.
 
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $25:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Colio Bricklayer's Reward Old Farm Cabernet Franc 2012 VQA Lake Erie North Shore, +395277, $19.95: a concentrated delight from older vines, fruity, peppery, some savoury herbs. 14.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
2.Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot 2012 Columbia Valley, +263418, $17.95: consistently underpriced and consistently delicious for MVC merlot, with nuances of all of the rich stuff (e.g. cherries, mocha). 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
3.Brick Kiln Shiraz 2011 McLaren Vale, +329979, $24.95. QPR: 90.
4.Chateau de Serame Reserve du Chateau Corbieres 2010, +175216, $16.95: juicy dark fruits, some game. Best for North American appeal. Gold Medalist. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
5.Xavier Cotes du Rhone 2011, +297317, $16.95: off-dry or lower acid finish, 14.5% ABV, 65% grenache. Old vines. MVC of south Rhone. QPR: 89.
6.Baron de Magana 2009 Navarra, +280552, $19.95: quite detailed with 35% merlot and 35% cabernet sauvignon. Quite Bordeaux in style but not in price. QPR: 89.
7.Hacienda Lopez de Haro Reserva 2005 Rioja, +357335, $18.95: now almost 10 years old and still inexpensive, this has the MVC of a Rioja Reserva with that sandalwood complexity. QPR: 89.
8.Castano Solanera Vinas Viejas 2012 Yecla, +276162, $16.95: hard to pass up an inexpensive Spanish wine that garnered a "94" from the man himself, Robert Parker. 70% mourvedre, black fruit all the way, oak treatment. 14.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $25 RETAIL
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1.Pahlmeyer Chardonnay 2013 Napa Valley, +147454, $116.95 retail. Surprise your clients by listing this at $125 - $130.
2.Bachelder Pinot Noir 2012 Willamette Valley, +333278, $34.95.
3.Tapiz Seleccion de Barricas 2008 Mendoza, +403253, $29.95.
4.Chateau Plaisance Cuvee Alix 2005 Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux, +348789, $26.95.
5.Bosquet des Papes Cuvee Tradition Chateauneuf du Pape 2012, +726687, $49.95.
6.E. Guigal Crozes-Hermitage 2011, +704908, $28.95.
7.La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino 2009, +642561, $49.95.
8.Rocca Delle Macie Vino Nobile di Montalcino 2011, +232488, $25.95.
9.Igino Accordini Le Bessole Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2007, +651570, $49.95.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

 
 
...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
26.FROM VINES TO WINES (Storey Publishing, 2015; distr. By T. Allen, 254 pages, ISBN 978-1-61212-438-4, $25.95 CAN paper covers) is by Jeff Cox, who has written over 20 books on food, wine, gardening, and landscaping. He's also a writer for many magazines. His book From Vines to Wines was originally published in 1999; this is the fifth edition. Almost 200,000 copies have been sold over its lifetime. It's a standard and classic work: the complete guide to growing grapes and making your own wine. Wine connoisseurs, gardeners, and home winemakers will find the latest techniques in this fully revised and updated edition. There are thorough and illustrated instructions for choosing and preparing a vineyard site; constructing effective trellising systems; planting, pruning, and harvesting the right grapes for an area's climate; pressing, fermenting, aging and bottling wine; and judging wine for clarity, color, aroma, body, and taste. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
 
27.THE EASY KITCHEN: GLUTEN-FREE RECIPES (Ryland Peters & Small, 2015, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-597-9, $19.95 US hard covers) and
 
28.THE EASY KITCHEN: VEGETARIAN DISHES (Ryland Peters & Small, 2015, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-596-2, $19.95 US hard covers) are both good examples of publisher books. The Easy Kitchen series brings together quick and easy recipes on popular subjects with mostly SLOFE principles (seasonal, local, organic, fast, and easy) covering the the esses: snacks, small plates, soups, sandwiches, sauces, stews, salads, substantial savouries, seafoods, sides, and sweets. Recipes come from the stable of writers (all given credit) such as Tonia George, Hannah Miles, or Ross Dobson. They are mainly arranged by course, with excellent photography. But caution: there is a semolina crumpet recipe in the GF book (semolina is hard durum wheat, but it can also be ground rice or ground corn grits – check the labeling). Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
29.VEGETARIAN MEDITERRANEAN-STYLE (Taunton Press, 2015, 238 pages, ISBN 978-1-62710-768-6, $19.95 US paper covers) is from Academia Barilla. It was originally published in Italian, and here it is translated for the American market. They offer 100 regional Italian dishes, with cooking tips and some cultural history. It is mainly the Mediterranean region of Italian cooking, rather than Mediterranean cooking in general. There's cipolle ripienne (stuffed onions), asparagi alla bismark, eggplant parmigiana, or cavatelli with fava bean puree and crispy breadcrumbs. It is a nice package, with difficulty levels indicated. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there are also tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
30.COOKING FOR ONE (Ryland Peters and Small, 2015, 144 pages, ISBN 978-1-84975-602-0, $16.95 US hard covers) is another publisher's book with contributions from their writing stable (Laura Washburn, Tonia George, Caroline Marsden, et al). It's a good idea, with worthwhile preps for solo dinners that also emphasize satisfaction, quick cleanup, and waste minimization. There are some freezer friendly recipes here, as well as batch cooking and storage. London has a third of homes occupied by just one person, while New York and Paris have more than half, and Stockholm has almost two thirds. That's the market. There are over 90 recipes here, and they have all been indexed by a named indexer, Hilary Bird. Preparations have their ingredients listed in a mix of metric and  avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
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Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Sunday, April 26, 2015

* THE RESTAURANT/CELEBRITY COOKBOOK...

...is one of the hottest trends in cookbooks. Actually, they've been around for many years, but never in such proliferation. They are automatic best sellers, since the book can be flogged at the restaurant or TV show and since the chef ends up being a celebrity somewhere, doing guest cooking or catering or even turning up on the Food Network. Most of these books will certainly appeal to fans of the chef and/or the restaurant and/or the media personality. Many of the recipes in these books actually come off the menus of the restaurants involved. Occasionally, there will be, in these books, special notes or preps, or recipes for items no longer on the menu. Stories or anecdotes will be related to the history of a dish. But because most of these books are American, they use only US volume measurements for the ingredients; sometimes there is a table of metric equivalents, but more often there is not. I'll try to point this out. The usual shtick is "favourite recipes made easy for everyday cooks". There is also PR copy on "demystifying ethnic ingredients". PR bumpf also includes much use of the magic phrase "mouth-watering recipes" as if that is what it takes to sell such a book. I keep hearing from readers, users, and other food writers that some restaurant recipes (not necessarily from these books) don't seem to work at home, but how could that be? The books all claim to be kitchen tested for the home, and many books identify the food researcher by name. Most books are loaded with tips, techniques, and advice, as well as gregarious stories about life in the restaurant world. Photos abound, usually of the chef bounding about. The celebrity books, with well-known chefs or entertainers, seem to have too much self-involvement and ego. And, of course, there are a lot of food photo shots, verging on gastroporn. There are endorsements from other celebrities in magnificent cases of logrolling. If resources are cited, they are usually American mail  order firms, with websites. Some companies, though, will ship around the world, so don't ignore them altogether. Here's a rundown on the latest crop of such books –
 
 
17.THE CRUMBS FAMILY COOKBOOK (CICO Books, 2014, 192 pages, ISBN  978-1-78249-172-9, $19.95 US paper covers) is by Lucy and Claire McDonald. Together they are UK sisters, journalists, bloggers, mothers, and have a popular YouTube channel called Crumbs Food. Here are 150 easy recipes for family food, all "really" quick and "very" easy for meals in minutes. There are also after-school snacks and menus for large crowds. It is pretty basic but comforting, with preps for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner, snacks, parties. They've got pizzas, pastas, pestos, sides, one-pots, vegetarian mains, cook aheads, boxed foods, even drinks and some baked goods. A nice package, well laid out in sassy style. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
18.MR. & MRS. SUNDAY'S SUPPERS (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-17529-3, $24.99 US hard covers) is by Lorraine Wallace, author of Mr. Sunday's Soups and Mr. Sunday's Saturday Night Chicken; her husband is the Fox Sunday News anchor, hence the name. It is a straight forward account of more than 100 homemade recipes for family dining. They are goof for any occasion, including game-days, holiday or birthday feasts. Or even for weeknight dining when harried. There are lots of ideas here, such as a three-berry cobbler, glazed short ribs, key lime pie bars, enchiladas, salmon burgers, and beef stew with winter root veggies. I particularly like the bold faced index entries,making it a breeze to locate dishes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
19.THE PALEO CHEF (Ten Speed Press, 2015, 216 pages, ISBN 978-1-60774-743-7, $24.99 US hard covers) is another entry in the lo-carb cookbook sweepstakes. Pete Evans is the chef here, as well as a cooking show host and cookbook author, originally from Australia where they thrive on this kind of food. He's got some heavy-duty logrolling endorsements from the authors of Grain Brain, Perfect Health Diet, and The Wheat Belly Cookbook, in addition to three others. For the most part, the preps are grain-free and dairy-free (but he does use ghee). There's even a page on fermented foods, to reflect the now-current trend. He's got some interesting items with nuts such as bacon bark or macadamia cheese, or as activated nuts and seeds.  Try lamb meatballs, turkey and shiitake lettuce cups, or sardines escabeche. Preparations have their ingredients listed in a mix of metric or avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
 
20.SOUL FOOD LOVE (Clarkson Potter, 2015, 224 pages, ISBN 978-0-8041-3793-5, $30 US hard covers) is by best-selling novelist Alice Randall and her daughter Caroline Randall Williams. Ms. Randall is also an expert on African-American cookbooks. They've taken about 80 recipes from her family's soul food tradition, and have nicely overhauled them to being them into the modern context of easy and healthy food. The basics are here: peanut chicken stew, red bean and rice salad, sweet potato pie, and more – in lo-cal and lo-fat versions. A good third of the book is memoir, devoted to her family's traditions. The balance of the book follow the setup from apps through desserts. This is followed by "crowns" (tall, rounded dishes given to their cherished guests) of mulatto rice, cauliflower, eggplant tower, and salmon mousse. At the very end there is a section on feeding large numbers, which includes a whole smoked turkey, Moorish pizza, roasted leg of lamb, and a chia pudding (among other recipes). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
21.COOK YOUR BUTT OFF! (Grand Central Life & Style, 2015; distr. Hachette, 251 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-8352-2, $26 US hard covers) is by Rocco DiSpirito, a Beard winner and chef of Union Pacific in NYC. He's had TV series and has authored 10 cookbooks, mainly diet-type such as this one. Here he re-emphasizes the pound a day loss diet, with more preps on fat-burning foods and gluten-free recipes. It's a 14 day program emphasizing fat-burning foods such as lactose-free, gluten-free, refined-sugar-free, with pre- and pro-biotics and a healthy acid-alkaline balance. The 75 recipes here begin with The Plan, followed by a course-by-course selection (beverages, breakfasts, lunches, dinners, snacks, desserts). Good layout of the index. There are article references and fitbit scan tie-ins. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
22.THE COVENANT KITCHEN (Schoken Books, 2015; distr. Random House of Canada, 262 pages, ISBN 978-0-8052-4325-3, $41 CAN, hard covers) is by Jeff and Jodie Morgan, co-owners of Covenant Winery in Berkeley, producing kosher wines. They have authored seven previous cookbooks. Here, with log rolling, they present more than 100 recipes augmented with suggested wine pairings (grape varieties, no labels are mentioned). There are international flavours here from the Mediterranean, Asia and California. Jewish customs are noted and of course some traditional foods are given a contemporary makeover. There are sidebars on wine pairing principles, kosher food preparation, menus for Jewish holidays, a history of Jewish wine. Recipes have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
23.HOW TO BRAISE (Little, Brown and Company, 2015, 148 pages, ISBN 978-0-316-25413-7, $25 US hard covers) is by Michael Ruhlman, now a prolific author of food reference books. Together with Mark Bittman (both collectively known as Bittruhl or Ruhlbitt) and his collective recipe books, they seem to have cornered the market on all manner of food reference database books. Here, in the second book in the "how-to" series, he deals with braises for red meats, poultry, and veggies. There are 20 in all, with lots of notes and procedures and possibilities for variations. Basic trendy preps include pork belly, pulled pork, chicken thighs, shanks, and short ribs. Soon to be trendy include "trotters" and braised fennel. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
24.THE FOOD OF TAIWAN (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015, 256 pages, ISBN 978-0-544-30301-0, $30 US hard covers) is by Cathy Erway, a radio host with a food show (Eat Your Words, on the US Heritage Radio Network). She also has a blog Not Eating Out in New York. Her mother is Taiwanese, and cookbooks about the cuisine are few and far between. This one might put it back on the map. Here are 100 preps of homestyle food, with five-spice powder, fresh chilies, and Sha-cha sauce. She's got an introduction to the cuisine's history, people, land and the famous Night Markets, Tea Culture, and Stinky Tofu. There are also a lot of travel-type photos and appealing food shots. The preps range from apps to desserts, with chapters on drinks, pantries, condiments and street snacks. Typical recipes are for sweet tofu custard, oysters with black bean sauce, Hakka-style pork stir fry, and oyster noodle soup (they have lots of oysters in Taiwan). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
25.TEA COCKTAILS (Skyhorse Publishing, 2014, 171 pages, ISBN 978-1-63220-449-3, $19.99 US hard covers) is by Abrigail R. Gehring, cookbook author, in partnership with Teatulia Organic Teas. Their specific teas are mentioned in the recipes, but of course you should be able to use your own fave varieties. The Teatulia co-op have their own organic gardens in Northern Bangladesh. This is a mixologist's guide to tea-infused cocktails, and is arranged by weight: from the light and fruity cocktails (rooibos berry daiquiri) to the sweet and spicy cocktails (ginger Lillet sin), the dark and smoky cocktails (lapsang manhattan), and the warm and toasty cocktails (ginger glogg). A variety of alcohols are used (brandy, rye, wines, etc.) and syrups and bitters (she has some recipes for these too). There is a brief tea primer at the beginning and a glossary and sources list at the end. She's also got a short chapter on tea-infused appetizers (bacon-wrapped dates with coconut chai dipping sauce, shrimp with bloody mary cocktail sauce). Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there are tables of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 86.
 

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Saturday, April 25, 2015

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! : Kitchen Creamery (Chronicle Books)

* FOOD BOOK OF THE MONTH! *
  ++++++++++++++++++++++
 
KITCHEN CREAMERY (Chronicle Books, 2015, 248 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-1162-9, $29.95 US hard covers) is by Louella Hill, a professional cheesemaker with a series of classes in the Bay Area <www.sfmilkmaid.com> Here she advocates making yogurt, butter and cheese at home in your kitchen. She's got a primer on Greek yogurt, kefir, creme fraiche, and butter. Next up is ricotta, quark, chevre, feta and mascarpone. Then there are the washed rinds, bloomy rinds, and the pressed cheeses. So there are about 42 in all, complemented by post-production fundamentals of judging ripeness, setting up a cheese cave, storing and freezing. It's a good book for classes, as are its intentions. Other material includes a glossary, troubleshooting, appendices on cultures and butterfat, sanitation and presses, and resources and references. It is a good reference book, just loaded with readable information. Recipes are for making cheese; there are no cooking with cheese ideas. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. The index is in large type. Quality/Price Rating: 91.
 
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Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Thursday, April 23, 2015

The Event: Spring Media Launch of Porzia's new food and cocktail menu (April 15, 2015)

The Event: Spring Media Launch of Porzia's new food and cocktail menu
The Venue: Porzia, 1314 Queen Street West
The Target Audience: food and wine media/bloggers
The Quote/Background: The restaurant had been open two years and it was time for a new spring menu. It was named one of Toronto's 10 best new restaurants in 2013 by the Globe and Mail. The menu rotates weekly through 10 items, all under the control of owner-chef Basilio Pesce (who named the restaurant after his mother).
The Wines: the launch featured a variety of beers and cocktails, as well as four wines that they offer.
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Rosewood VQA Sussreserve Riesling 2013, 10.4% ABV, $14.95 LCBO
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Moonlite 2013 IGT Rocca della Macie, about 1/3 chardonnay and 1/3 vermentino, $14.95 Vintages
-Rosewood VQA Select Series Pinot Noir 2013, $21.95 Vintages
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Rocca delle Macie Chianti 2013 Vernaiolo, $14.95 LCBO
 
The Food: the food came out in series, beginning with formaggi and salumi. These were around for the longest time before the superb crostini arrived (bone marrow and snails, cotechino and rapini, and ricotta and bomba: all best with Sussreserve). Next up were excellent olive oil halibut and fiddlehead aioli (my wife's fave). Deep fried side strip prawns arrived by the platterful, but it was difficult to get to the stinging nettle tortellini with smoked mackerel (too small a plate and everyone wanted photos). But I did, and I am glad that I caught up with the catch. By then, the crowd had doubled, the music volume had doubled, and while there was more food to come, we could not take the crush-noise-layout anymore. So we left. Of course, it will not be this way during a normal night sitdown meal.
The Downside: because of the set up it was impossible to pair all the wines with all the food. There were not enough seats and tables to do this. The crowds compounded the layout by actively taking cellphone and camera pix of the food, which managed to cool off before being eaten.
The Upside: great food. We were sorry to miss the grilled octopus, the chicken liver agnolotti, the ricotta cheese cake with rhubarb, and the yogurt panna cotta. I did not have enough nerve to ask for a doggy bag for these items.
The Contact Person: rob@loschagency.com and www.porzia.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 82.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com
Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada

Monday, April 20, 2015

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH! : A Beer for All Seasons (Storey Publishing)

* DRINK BOOK OF THE MONTH!
 
BEER FOR ALL SEASONS (Storey Publishing, 2015, 200 pages, ISBN 978-1-61212-347-9, $14.95 US paper covers) is by Randy Mosher, author of many books and articles about beer. His latest was "Tasting Beer" (Storey Publishing – 120,000 copies printed) which emphasized the techniques of beer tasting. Here he moves on to celebrate the beers that we use to, well, celebrate our occasions in life. It's arranged by season, with guides to beer events such as Oktoberfest, craft beer weeks, and summer festivals. In detail he describes why certain beers are best at certain times of the year (based on agriculture and history). He's also got holiday celebrations and food pairings, as well as more tasting notes and beer style notes. He concludes with "around the world in 80 beers". So – beginning with Spring he delves into bock beers. And spring is also about lamb, so he's got the beer pairings for lamb, followed by Easter and Mother's Day. Summer is cold lager (and wheat beers) and national holidays (and Father's Day: get a mixed pack of beers). While the thrust of the book is American, comparable holidays do exist in Canada. All that is lacking for Canadian content are actual dates or titles of local beer festivals, although the national ones in Montreal and Vancouver are covered. The book is heavily illustrated with labels and adverts and pix of beer glasses in all their colours of brown and yellow. No actual food or beer recipes. Quality/Price Rating: 91.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Tuesday, April 14, 2015

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 18, 2015

 
WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 18, 2015
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here.
 
NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting. It is getting more difficult to endorse wines under $20 for the simple reason that the LCBO does not release many of them into the Vintages program, ones that can be deemed to be worthy of your consideration. So I will now just ADD some "under $25" suggestions, along with point values.
 
 
====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
M.Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2013, +168716, $15.95: great value for a blend of Grencahe and Syrah, done up in the southern Rhone style, good syrah hits of blackberries and some saddles. Extremely nice price. QPR: 91.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $25:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Rapaura Springs Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Marlborough, +388421, $21.95. QPR: 90.
2.Roland Lavantureux Chablis 2013, +328807, $23.95. QPR: 90.
3.Featherstone Gewurztraminer 2013 VQA Twenty Mile Bench, +64592, $19.95: good intense Alsatian-style gewurz flavours are nailed here. Food or sip, 13% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.
4.Henry of Pelham Estate Riesling 2012 VQA Short Hills Bench, +557165, $17.95: a delicious hit of Riesling intensity, good acid levels on the finish, broad fruity strokes on mid-palate. 11.5% ABV, not as sweet as (M) indicates. QPR; 89
5.Hugel Gentil 2013 Alsace, +367284, $15.95: at one time on the LCBO general list, this  wine is a reasonably costed patio/deck/first course sipper/food wine. A good zwicker field blend. QPR: 89.
6.Cheateau de la Bretesche Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 2013, +412163, $12.95: the LCBO Muscadet of the month. QPR: 88.
7.Loosen Bros. Dr. L Riesling 2013 Mosel, +599274, $13.95: a beginner's Mosel riesling, affordable summer sipper, sure to fly off the shelves at this price. 8.5% ABV. QPR: 90.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $25:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Airfield Estates Runway Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Yakima Valley, +408351, $24.95. QPR: 90.
2.Condado de Haza Crianza 2010 Ribera del Duero, +963348, $24.95. QPR: 91.
3.Torres Celeste Crianza 2011 Ribera del Duero, +210872, $20.95. QPR: 90.
4.Falernia Reserva Syrah 2010 Elqui Valley Chile, +208371, $18.95: done up in French magic style, but still juicy syrah. Great value, 14% ABV. QPR: 90.
5.Alto Casablanca Primus The Blend 2012 Colchagua Valley, +712463, $19.95: s decent blend of cab sauv(25%), carmenere (25), syrah (25), and balance of merlot, cab franc, and petit verdot, coming in at 14.5% ABV. Lots of dense black fruit and some fennel. QPR: 89.
6.Sister's Run Epiphany Shiraz 2012 McLaren Vale, +269464, $15.95: a lovely hit of the syrah style of making wine from this grape, disclosing its Euro roots. 14.5% ABV, twist top. Nice price. QPR: 89.
7.Oyster Bay Pinot Noir 2013 Marlborough, +590414, $19.95: a serious contender in the pinot noir "love 'em and leave 'em" sweepstakes, delicious French style, 13.5% ABV, twist top. QPR: 89.
8.Domaine Le Grand Retour Pla de Dieu Cotes du Rhone-Villages 2012, +224592, $14.95: more traditional in style with less flair but more game. 14.5% ABV. 75% grenache, 15 syrah, and 10 mourvedre. QPR: 89.
9.Abad Dom Bueno Crianza 2006 Bierzo, +244699, $15.95: the latest affordable wine from the trending Bierzo region in Spain, value in the blackness of the grapes, but still some unresolved tannins in the finish (needs food). 13.6% ABV. QPR: 89.
10.Conde de Valdemar Reserva 2007 Rioja, +947309, $19.95: another well-aged but undervalued Rioja wine, needs your attention for its aged components and will not disappoint. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $25 RETAIL
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1.Cave Spring CSV Riesling 2012 VQA Beamsville Bench, +566026, $29.95 retail.
2.Norman Hardie Niagara Unfiltered Chardonnay 2013 VQA Niagara, +184432, $39
3.Mer Soleil Reserve Chardonnay 2013 Santa Lucia Highlands Monterey, +958975, $34.95
4.Trimbach Reserve Riesling 2011 Alsace, +995316, $29.95
5.Domaine Latour-Giraud-Cuvee Charles Maxime Meursault 2013, +299784, $55.95
6.Quails' Gate Pinot Noir 2013 VQA Okanagan Valley, +585760, $26.95
7.Chateau Dassault 2011 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classe, +299149, $49.85
8.Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 IGT Rubicone Emilia-Romagna, +225086, $27.95.
9.Antinori Badia a Passignano Gran Selezione Chianti Classico 2009, +384552, $44.95
10.Montemercurio Messaggero Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2008, +385393, $29.95
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Friday, April 10, 2015

The Event: Celebrating Donatella Cinelli Colombini, the Lady of Brunello, presented by Le Sommelier Wine Agent

The Date and Time:  Monday, March 30, 2015  1PM to 3 PM
The Event: Celebrating Donatella Cinelli Colombini, the Lady of Brunello, presented by Le Sommelier Wine Agent
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve
The Target Audience: private clients, wine media
The Availability/Catalogue: we taste 8 wines, all are available by Vintages, consignment, or private order.
The Quote/Background: The wines at this estate are produced by women, including Valerie Lavigne from Bordeaux. Donatella produces four levels of Montalcino: a Rosso (about $28, potential for Ontario), a Brunello classic (under $70), a Prime Donne (under $90), and a Riserva (about $100). The Prime Donne is made by a team of four women winemakers from Germany, Italy, UK, and USA. The winery also makes a series of blends (see below) using merlot, foglia tonda, sagrantino; the latter is grown on the Tuscan side of Umbria.
The Wines:
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI Leone Rosso Orcia DOC 2010, $20.95 consignment [60%sangiovese/40%merlot) – the bargain of the day, excellent fruit and French wood expression.
-DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI Cenerentola DOC Orcia 2010, $42.95 consignment [65%sangiovese/35% the autochthonous foglia tonda]. Served with the award-winning Cendrillon cheese from PQ.
-DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI Brunello di Montalcino 2007, $63.95 consignment in transit
-DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne 2010, $79.95 in transit – my fave of the day
-DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2007, $97 Vintages +107508
 
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI Il Drago e le 8 Colombe IGT Roscana Rosso 2010, $31.95 consignment [60%sangiovese grosso/20%merlot/20%sagrantino] – Valerie Lavigne's first vintage for Donatelle.
-DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI Brunello di Montalcino 2008, $63.95 private order
-DONATELLA CINELLI COLOMBINI Brunello di Montalcino 2010, $65.95 consignment
 
The Food: salamis, prosciutto, cheeses, olive bread, figs, grapes.
The Downside: I had to leave early for another engagement.
The Upside: a chance to speak with Donatella herself.
The Contact Person: bernard@lesommelier.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 92.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, April 8, 2015

* THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text while keeping the focus tight. Some magazines will reissue popular or classic recipes in an "easy" format. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
 
22.THE PLAN (Grand Central Life & Style, 2013, 2014, 307 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-1549-3, $16 US paper covers) is by Lyn-Genet Recitas, a holistic nutritionist for more than 30 years. It has been a best-selling book and is now available as a paperback reprint with added recipes, plus some updated ones. Essentially, her diet calls for structuring a food plan around the foods that are best for you. It is a way of changing how you eat, and for life. Prepping begins with a three day cleanse followed by testing for food groups and types. Trigger foods are identified and should be avoided. At the same time, you can lose weight by personalizing a healthy foods list that promotes rapid weight loss. She's got many ideas, including a spring diet and a thyroid diet, both of which involve some testing. Additional menus and ideas are to be found at her website www.lyngenet.com. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents. Well worth a look. Quality/price rating: 87.
 
 
23.THE DASH DIET ACTION PLAN; proven to lower blood pressure and cholesterol without medication (Grand Central Life & Style, 2007, 2014 , 220 pages, ISBN 978-1-4555-1282-9, $16 US paper covers) is by Marla Heller, RD, who also teaches food science at the University of Illinois at Chicago. This was Heller's first DASH book (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension); this is the paperback reprint version. The DASH diet has been proven to lower blood pressure and cholesterol without the need for medication.
With a diet of fruits, vegetables, low-fat and nonfat dairy, lean meats, fish and poultry, nuts, beans and seeds, healthy fats, and whole grains, one can drop pounds and get a faster metabolism with lower body fat and improved cardiovascular fitness. Her diet book is the plan, with a few basic recipes to get you started. She's got 28 days of meal plans at different calorie levels, shopping lists, eating-on-the-run tips, plus advice on exercise. This is fourth time through for this book, it is already a
classic. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.  Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
24.LOMELINO'S CAKES; 27 pretty cakes to make any day special (Roost Books, 2012, 2014, 148 pages, ISBN 978-1-61180-150-7, $22.95 US hard covers) is by Linda Lomelino, a food writer living in Sweden. It was originally published in Swedish in 2012; this is the 2014 translation for the North American market. It is a neat book with much material on equipment, ingredients, baking cake layers, dividing the cake into layers, filling and covering the cake, piping techniques, assembling and decorating. Plus the inevitable tips, hints, advice, and secrets. Some of the 27 preps are complicated but not difficult. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois weight and volume measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. Some of the ingredients are scaled for correct ratios. Some interesting cakes include chocolate and licorice cake, cardamom cake with blueberries, lemon lover's dream cake, frozen mango passion, and frozen tiramisu. Quality/price rating: 85.
 
 
 
25.THE TASTE OF BELGIUM (Grub Street, 1996, 2014, 336 pages, ISBN 978-1-909808-18-8, 25 pounds sterling, hard covers) is by Ruth van Waerebeek, a Belgian chef who wrote this book in 1996 (Workman Publishing) and is now currently a brand ambassador and house chef for Conch y Toro winery in Chile. She runs major cooking classes in Chile. The original title was Everybody Eats Well in Belgium Cookbook, and over the years it has proved to be a classic by selling over 50,000 copies. It has long been out-of-print, so there is great joy in welcoming it back for new cooks. Belgian cuisine is like no other, with a merge of strong Germanic traditions with French culture. Belgium has more 3-star restaurants per capita than any other country, including France. This is home cooking at its highest point, and it is thus substantial with hearty soups (she's got 20), herring salads, pork liver pates, mussels and snails, eels, Belgian fries, partridge and red cabbage, beer and more beer (especially in cooking), Brussels sprouts, potatoes, apples, waffles, chocolate. Total recipes: 250, and each is a gem. It's a good reference book to Belgian food as she provides deep background for most of the preps. Recipes have their ingredients listed in both avoirdupois and metric measurements. One drawback – the native words (Dutch and French?) for each prep are too lightly grey-screened in tiny print – you'll need a magnifying glass. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Some Newly Released wines tasted in March...


 
1.Chateau des Charmes Rose Cuvee d'Andree 2014 VQA NOTL, $14.95 Vintages +333260: this fresh and vibrant rose continues to please year over year as I have said before. It is still 100% pinot noir, dry "old style" as in Europe, but loaded with Ontario cranberry and red fruit strawberry tones from the hot summer, coming in at 12.5% ABV. Stainless steel fermentation of course, and twist top. Refreshing, just bottled. Quality/Price rating is 89 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
2.Chateau des Charmes Chardonnay Barrel Fermented 2013 VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake, $13.95, +81653 LCBO: a consistent wine, year in and year out, my fave chardonnay at this price level. But 2013 was a warmer year, so more smoke, fewer minerals, less underbrush, apples, tropical fruits and lemons. But longer finish. Cork closure, 13% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 91 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
3.Tapestry [BG & V] Shiraz 2012 McLaren Vale, +247155, $19.95: with a new label and a slight re-naming, Tapestry is back (formerly 2009). This time it is 14.5% ABV, but it still has the MVC shiraz characteristics of bright and dark black fruit, plummy, and expressive heat on the mid-palate. Some Euro-complexity with a smooth finish. Expect some cassis and mocha tones, along with black olive nuances and some vanilla via the oak, truly weaving a tapestry of flavours. Great BBQ wine for summer. Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
4.Tokaji Yellow Muscat 2012 Puklus Cellars Hungary, $15.95, +46508 Vintages: This Yellow Muscat is related to Muscat Blanc. Made from older vines, done up in Late Harvest style, with that peachy complexity, medium-bodied, but with lemons and pineapple acidity on the longer finish. Floral aromatics. 11.5% ABV. Serve with later courses (fruity mains, salads, cheeses, off-dry desserts). Quality/Price rating is 90 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
5.JeanJean Ormarine Carte Noire Picpoul de Pinet 2013 Coteaux du Languedoc, +525287, $12.95 Vintages: affordable tastiness from the piquepoul grape, 12.5% ABV, twist top. Gold Medalist. Expect floral and mineral tones, with medium acidity. One to go up against pinot grigio. Best with seafood rather than sipping. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
6.Schmitt Sohne Re-Think Dry Riesling Mosel, +394361, $12.80 LCBO: a versatile riesling without the sweetness, nuances of peach-apple-lemon-apricots, but bound in a higher acid wine meant more for first course food. Twist top, 11% ABV. Quality/Price rating is 88 points by Dean Tudor of Gothic Epicures.
 
 
 
Chimo! www.deantudor.com

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 4, 2015

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR APRIL 4, 2015
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com. Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium "Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net", a guide to thousands of news items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, has been at www.deantudor.com since 1994. My LCBO tastings are based on MVC (Modal Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here.
 
NOTE: The LCBO does NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting. It is getting more difficult to endorse wines under $20 for the simple reason that the LCBO does not release many of them into the Vintages program, ones that can be deemed to be worthy of your consideration. So I will now just ADD some "under $25" suggestions, along with point values.
 
 
====?>>> ** BEST WINE VALUE OF THE RELEASE *UNDER* $20
 
Henry of Pelham Estate Chardonnay 2013 VQA Short Hills Bench Niagara, +268342, $19.95: voluptuous ripeness, pleasant balance of oaking and fruit, integrated style in place. Lovely wood on the finish. 13.5% ABV, cork closure. QPR: 90.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $25:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Marlborough, +677450, $24.95. QPR: 90.
2.Domaine Bonnard Sancerre 2013, +140525, $23.95. QPR: 90.
3.Cousino-Macul Antiguas Reserva Chardonnay 2013 Maipo, +730044, $15.95: at 13.5% ABV, this powerhouse chardonnay shows some mild oaking, with everything in moderation. QPR: 89.
4.Terre de Vignerons Famille Excellor Sauvignon 2012 Bordeaux, +403915, $14.95: a very useful savvy at this price. QPR: 88.
5.Domaine Vincent Sauvestre Bourgogne Chardonnay 2013, +365056, $19.95: the parade of decent white burgundies for under $20 continues – some nuttiness here, but mainly stainless steel for crispness. Well-rounded. QPR: 89.
6.Zenato San Benedetto Lugana 2013 Veneto, +707158, $16.95: good value, with some dry orange-peach muscat tones. 13%, cork closure. QPR: 89.
7.Eidosela Albarino 2013 DO Rias Baixas, +336271, $14.95: fleshy, longer finish, aromatic with orange-peach nuances. Value driven wine. 13% ABV. QPR: 88.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $25:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1.Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2011 IGT Veronese, +672931, $24.95. QPR: 90.
2.Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Columbia Valley Washington, +240093, $17.95: delicious fruitiness plus mocha tones, ready now. 13.5% ABV. QPR: 89.
3.Feudi San Pio Ripasso Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2012, +181446, $17.95: the LCBO "ripasso of the month"? QPR: 89.
4.Quinta Do Portal Frontaria 2009 Douro, +324533, $13.95. black fruit berries, mocha, and extract from using Port grape varieties. One-quarter aged in French oak. QPR: 90.
5.Muriel Reserva Vendimia Seleccionada 2008 Rioja, +276030, $18.95: still lively and fruity, 13.5% ABV, MVC Rioja, good price. QPR: 90.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $25 RETAIL
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10 markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1.Clos Pegase Hommage Mitsuko's Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 Carneros Napa Valley, +408385, $49.95 retail.
2.Domaine Jean Collet & Fils Montmains Chablis 1er Cru 2011, +405704, $31.95.
3.Barossa Valley Estate Ebenezer Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, +39537, $39.95.
4.Tscharke Marananga Gnadenfrei Shiraz 2011 Barossa Valley, +303370, $26.95.
5.Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino 2008, +245225, $49.95.
6.Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2011, +704346, $31.95.

Chimo! www.deantudor.com