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Tuesday, March 27, 2012

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 31, 2012

It's the  Blue Moon release for March 2012 !!!
 
 
WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 31, 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 
THIS IS THE BLUE MOON RELEASE !!
 
Recommended for the Blue Moon (drink it tonight) is: Chateau de
Trinquevedel Tavel Rose 2011, delicious flavours and FRESH like you
wouldn't believe (only 7 months old). Perfect colour, 13.5% ABV.
+729947, $17.95, QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Cave Spring Estate Bottled Gewurztraminer 2010 VQA Beamsville Bench:
good MVC for the grape, but also with a perfumed finish. +302059,
$17.95, QPR: 89.
2. First Press Chardonnay 2010 Napa: standard but well developed
California Napa Chardonnay, 14.5% ABV. +199810, $19.95, QPR: 89.
3. Zuccardi Serie A Chardonnay/Viognier 2010 Mendoza: a sipper, off-dry
fruity chardonnay, apples, peaches and lemons dominate. +262097,
$14.95, QPR: 89.
4. Auntsfield Long Cow Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Marlborough: delicious,
with plenty of MVC zest skewed to the green green grass of home.
+663286, $19.95, QPR: 89.
5. Chateau Roquetaillade La Grange Blanc 2010 Graves: youthful and
useful, sip or food, good body, fab price. +240374, $14.95, QPR: 89
6. Velenosi Villa Angela Pecorino 2010 Offida Marche: good orchard
fruit in tone, slight nuttiness, long finish, body, 13% ABV, much
better than pinot grigio at this price level. +173252, 13.95, PR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Cosentino Cigarzin Zinfandel 2008 California: time for a stogy? This
is thick, juicy and ready, with good aging. 15.4% ABV, chocolate and
mocha overlays. +269340, $19.95, QPR: 90.
2. Rodney Strong Merlot 2008 Sonoma County: minty bacon-y, plumy, not
your typical merlot. +497933, $19.95, QPR: 89.
3. Tyrrell's Rufus Stone Shiraz 2009 Victoria: deep, ready now, much
like an Hermitage. +91488, $19.95, QP: 90.
4. Flagstone Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 WO Western Cape: heavy-
heavy rap music, twist top, 15% ABV heat. Black fruit and eucalyptus.
+205245, $17.95, QPR: 89.
5. Chateau La Fleur Terrien 2009 Lussac Saint-Emilion: easy drinking
merlot-based Bordeaux, affordable. +199059, $14.95, QPR: 89.
6. Gerard Bertrand Minervois Syrah/Grenache 2009: fresh, syrah
component dominates, black fruit throughout, finishes with some acid
for food. Gold Medalist. 14% ABV. +95284, $15.95, QPR: 89.
7. Taurino Riserva Salice Salentino 2008 Puglia: nicely aged, with some
earthiness and Italianate complexity, 14% ABV. +177527, $14.95, QPR:
89.
8. Albino Armani Egle Ripassso Valpolicella Superiore 2008: the Blue
Moon Armani-suited Ripasso of the Month. +247916, 5.95, QPR: 89.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Karia Chardonnay 2009 Napa, +54585, $37.95
retail.
2. Amayna Chardonnay 2008 Leyda Chile, +76265, $25.95.
3. Yalumba Viognier 2010 Eden Valley, +954644, $24.95
4. Corte Riva Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Napa/Sonoma, +89318, $39.95.
5. Sodaro Felicity Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa, +272641, $43.95.
6. The Paring Red 2007 California, +218909, $33.95.
7. Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian ells Merlot 2008 Columbia Valley,
+408864, $25.95.
8. Chateau Larrivet Haut Brion 200 Pessac Leognan, +264283, $48.95.
9. Guy Farge Terre de Granit St Joseph 2009, +270215, 26.95.
10. Terre Nere Brunello di Montalcino 2006, +208462, $35.95.
 
Dean Tudor, Ryerson University Journalism Professor Emeritus
Treasurer, Wine Writers' Circle of Canada
Look it up and you'll remember it; screw it up and you'll never forget it.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com

Monday, March 26, 2012

March 19/21: Alvaro Palacios leads structured tasting at RCYC St. George

The Date and Time: Monday, March 19, 2012

The Event: A tutored tasting with Alvaro Palacios talking about 11 wines from all three Palacios properties in Spain.

The Venue: RCYC St. George Club House

The Target Audience: wine writers and sommeliers

The Availability/Catalogue: all the wines are available through private orders with the agent, Woodman Wines & Spirits Inc.

The Quote/Background: there was some talk about viura being the new chardonnay. In the main, Alvaro did a great job in explaining the terroir and the vinification processes over the course of 90 minutes.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Palacios Remondo Rioja Propiedad 2008, $39 – My FAVE of the tasting

-Alvaro Palacios Priorat Les Terrasses 2010, $45

-Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo Las Lamas 2009, $116

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Alvaro Palacios Priorat Gratallops 2010, $66 [2008 is in the May Classics Catalog, same price]

-Palacios Remondo Rioja La Montesa 2009, $21

-Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo Petalos del Bierzo 2010, $26

-Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo Villa de Corullon 2009, $49

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Alvaro Palacios Priorat Camins del Priorat 2010, $26

-Alvaro Palacios Priorat Finca Dofi 2009, $90

-Palacios Remondo Rioja Placet 2009, $32  [white]

-Palacios Remondo Rioja La Vendimia 2011, $17 [red]

 

The Food: a light lunch of sliders with beef, whitefish, pizza, salad.

The Downside: it was very warm in the room.

The Upside: it was packed with well over 45 people.

The Contact Person: info@woodmanwinesandspirits.com

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89.

 

Saturday, March 24, 2012

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 
15. THE FRENCH WOMEN DON'T GET FAT COOKBOOK (Atria Books, 2010, 2012;
distr. Simon & Schuster, 298 pages, ISBN 978-1-4391-4897-6, $16 U paper
covers) is by Mireille Guiliano, author of French Women Don't Get Fat.
Not only did we all know she would write a cookbook based on that
bestselling book, but also we knew that it would be in paperback t some
point. Thus, this is the 2012 soft cover re-issue of the hardbound
book. She reiterates how to enjoy food and stay slim, with recipes to
back it up. Nine of these preps had appeared in two of her previous
books. Her organization centres around breakfast, lunch and dinner. Try
haricots verts salad with peaches and almonds, apple compote with
pistachios, quinoa with almonds and hazelnuts and apricots, spaghetti
with lime and arugula, orecchiette with broccoli rabe and sausage, or
vegetable curry. There are shopping lists and chapters dealing with
health concerns. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 89. 
 

16. FISH FOREVER; the definitive guide to understanding, selecting, and
preparing healthy, delicious, and environmentally sustainable seafood
(John Wiley & Sons, 2007, 2012, 438 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-16941-4,
$21.99 US paper covers) is by Paul Johnson, owner of the Monterey Fish
Market and supplier to many top California chefs (Waters, Keller,
Bertolli) and serves on the board of Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood
Watch Program. Some of the royalties are being donated to "Save Our
Wild Salmon". This is the paperback reprint of the 2007 hard cover
book. His book tries to show us how to chose seafood that is both
sustainable and healthy, despite many ecological and lifesmart issues.
He tries to find the least-endangered, least-contaminated, and best-
tasting species. There are 70 of these (anchovies, bluefish, squid,
tilapia, clams, weakfish, black sea bass, et al) and 96 recipes to use
them. Did you know that Alaskan Pollock is 40% of all fish caught in US
waters? Just about all of it is frozen and processed to imitation-
seafood (e.g., crab). This is FOUR BILLION pounds annually, and is
mostly sold to restaurants and supermarkets, packaged for the latter as
"breaded fish". He has an appendix dealing with omega-3s and mercury
(called a "balancing act"), raw seafood, a glossary of health concerns,
organic pollutants, fishing and aquaculture methods. The bibliography
lists Internet sites. You could try catfish tacos, Mediterranean baked
cod, minestrone, yellowtail snapper with tomato and tarragon pan sauce,
snapper seviche, and slow-roasted salmon salad. There have been the
inevitable changes since 2007, such as more Pollock turning up on the
shelves and skate is now endangered on the East coast (restos are
encouraged to avoid it). Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
17. BEER FOR DUMMIES, 2d ed. (John Wiley & Sons, 2012, 340 pages, ISBN
978-1-118-12030-9, $22.99 US paper covers) is by Marty Nachel, a
certified beer judge, and Steve Ettlinger, an author of food books. The
first edition was in 1996, so this is virtually a brand new book since
it is now 15 years later. It is billed as "the fun and friendly guide
to all things beer", with an emphasis on how to taste and evaluate
beer. There are basics on ingredients like hops, malt, and barley, plus
the differences between lagers and ales. Along the way, there are
sections on the best beer festivals, tastings, and events around the
world as well as tips for pouring, storing, and drinking beer like an
expert. New coverage on the various styles of beer found around the
world including: real ale, barrel aged/wood aged beer, organic brews,
and extreme beer. Nachel has some updated profiles on the flavor and
body of each beer, explaining why beers taste the way they do, as well
as their strengths and ideal serving temperatures. He also tells how to
read a label, beer-and-food pairings, and cooking with beer. Recipes
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no table of metric equivalents. Canada and Mexico get one page each,
with a sidebar dedicated to the LCBO and The Beer Store.
Quality/price rating: 87.
 

18. MY COOKING CLASS: Indian Basics; 85 recipes illustrated step by
step (Firefly, 2011, unpaged, ISBN 978-1-55407-939-1, $24.95 CAN paper
covers) is by Jody Vassallo, an Ayurveda traditional medicine cook.
There are no specific page references here, but each prep is numbered
and indexed. "The recipes are presented in complete visual sequences,
step by step from start to finish." Every utensil is photographed from
above in colour, and the ingredients are shown in the correct quantity
and in the order that it will be used. The book was originally
published in 2010 in French by Marabout, and then later translated.
There are written instructions and tasks are demonstrated. Advice and
variations are also given. It is a good format. There is a glossary,
eight menus, and some notes on Ayurvedic cooking. Useful recipes
include grilled fish in banana leaf, lamb biryani, butter chicken,
chewy spiced yogurt cake, and a variety of dals. Preparations have
their ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of equivalents. Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 

19. MY COOKING CLASS: preserving basics; 77 recipes illustrated step by
step (Firefly, 2011, unpaged, ISBN 978-1-55407-942-1, $24.95 CAN paper
covers) is by Jody Vassallo, who has written over two dozen cookbooks.
There are no specific page references here, but each prep is numbered
and indexed. "The recipes are presented in complete visual sequences,
step by step from start to finish." Every utensil is photographed from
above in colour, and the ingredients are shown in the correct quantity
and in the order that it will be used. The book was originally
published in 2011 in French by Marabout, and then later translated.
There are written instructions and tasks are demonstrated. Advice and
variations are also given. It is a good format. There are food charts,
pectin charts and storage charts. Useful recipes include spreads
(curds, butters, chocolate), jellies, marmalades, mustards, chutneys
and relishes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric
and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 88.
 
 
 
20. PROFESSIONAL EVENT COORDINATION. 2d ed. (John Wiley & Sons, 2012,
492 pages, ISBN 978-0-470-56071-6, $70 US hard covers) is by Julia
Rutherford Silvers, an academic and industry consultant to the
hospitality trade. She's a multiple award winner who conducts workshops
and lectures around the world. The book was first published nine years
ago in 2003, and here has been completely overhauled. She covers a
range from small parties of ten to large corporate events for 10,000.
This includes her takes on design, project management, site selection,
site development, safety and security issues, food and beverage
management, and entertainment. It is a good reference work for
practitioners and students, with case studies, forms and checklists,
online resources, and discussion questions. New in the previous decade
have been such things as mobile devices, virtual conferencing, social
media, and the need for green and sustainable practices, and these are
admirably covered here. There are both suggestions for additional
reading and a bibliography. Quality/price rating: 87.
 

21. MEALS IN MINUTES: EASY DESSERTS (Weldon Owens, 2007, 2011, 112
pages, ISBN 978-1-61628-215-8, $9.99 US paper covers) comes form the
previously published "Desserts" in the Food Made Fast series. Okay, so
now everything is both easy and fast. The recipes were developed by
Elinor Klivans. Everything is either 15 minutes (hands-on time) or 30
minutes total – the book is arranged that way. There is a buttery
cookie dough to freeze and use in many of the dessert recipes found
here. And there are nine other preps to make that can be stored. Strewn
about are tips, suggestions and ideas on planning. A well-stocked
pantry is suggested. Preparations have their ingredients listed in both
metric and avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents. Try cherry clafoutis, spicy chocolate truffles, toasted
almond gelato, blackberry fool, or hot fudge parfaits. Quality/price
rating: 89.
 

22. PRAIRIE HOME BREADS; 150 splendid recipes from America's
breadbasket (Harvard Common Press, 2001, 2011, 230 pages, ISBN 978-1-
55832-173-1, $14.95 US paper covers) is by Judith M. Fertig, who has
had Beard and IACP cookbook nominations. She specializes in Midwestern
US regional cuisine. The book was originally published in 2001, and
here, a decade later, is the paperback reprint. It is a farmland bread
book, full of rusticity. There are whole-grain breads, Sunday dinner
breads, breakfast muffins, scones, dessert breads, teatime treats and
pastries. Biscuits, crackers, popovers, coffee cakes, rolls and buns
complete the picture. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
This is a very interesting collection of recipes, with some historical
preps that have been updated. Try Russian Mennonite sour rye bread,
herbed polenta bread, pizza pollotate, Amish pinwheel bread, Dakota
territory sourdough potato bread, or spoon rolls. Quality/price rating:
88.
 

Thursday, March 22, 2012

March 13/12: Grandi Marchi Mini Tasting at Barberian's

The Date and Time: Tuesday, March 13, 2012  3PM to 5PM
The Event: A Gandi Marchi tasting
The Venue: Barberian's
The Target Audience: wine writers
The Availability/Catalogue: most wines are at the LCBO in some channels, others are by consignment. The GM represent 19 families who make upscale Italian wines. Not all GM families were represented here, about five were missing (most likely because they had no product in Ontario at the moment).
The Quote/Background: Michael Fagan, Manager of LCBO's Knowledge Resources Group, spoke about Grandi Marchi and their support for the LCBO's newest three DVDs about Italian wines (North, Middle, South) during a month long shoot. Also attending was Mariana Nedic from IEEM on behalf of the GM.
The Wines:
 
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino 2006 (2005 at Vintages, $59.95)
-Masi Costasera Riserva Amarone Classico 2006
-Jermann Were Dreams Bianco 2009, $63.95 +5154 Vintages
-Umani Ronchi San Lorenzo Rosso Conero Montepulciano 2008, $14.95 +981191
 
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Antinori Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva 2007 (2006 at Vintages, $44)
-Biondi Santi Greppo Brunello di Montalcino 2005
-Folonari Tenuta di Nozzole La Forra Chianti Classico Riserva, $29.95 +177279
-Donnafugata Tancredi 2007 Sicilia, $25.95 +990424
-Tasca d'Almerita Lamuri Nero d'Avola 2009, $17.95 Vintages
 
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Michele Chiarlo Le Orme Barbera d'Asti Superiore 209, $14.95 Vintages
-Pio Cesare Gavi 2010
-Ca' del Bosco Franciacorta Prestige/Brut 2010/11, $45 +105353
-Carpene Malvolti Cuvee Prosecco, $13.85 +727438 Vintages
-Jermann Chardonnay 2010 (2009 at Vintages, $29.95)
-Lungarotti Sagrantino di Montefalco 2009
-Lungarotti Torre di Giano Vigna al Pino 2008
-Agiolas Costera Cannonau di Sardegna 2009, $17.95 +99028
 
The Food: cold cuts, charcuterie, cured salmon, cheeses, breads.
The Downside: it was hot in the small cellar – there were over 40 people present. There were no listings or prices available, just a catalogue about the families themselves.
The Upside: a great chance to taste a variety of pricey wines.
The Contact Person: info@wolffpublicrelations.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 83.

Chimo!  www.deantudor.com AND http://gothicepicures.blogspot.com

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

THE REISSUES, THE REPRINTS, AND THE NEWER EDITIONS...

...all reflect a boom in the cookbook publishing business. A paperback
reprint will lower the cost to the purchaser, and also give a publisher
a chance to correct egregious errors or add a postscript. Some will
reissue a book in paper covers with a new layout or photos. Others will
rearrange existing material to present it as more informative text
while keeping the focus tight. Here are some recent "re-editions"...
 

20. PRAIRIE HOME COOKING; 400 recipes that celebrate the bountiful
harvests, creative cooks, and comforting foods of the American
heartland (Harvard Common Press, 1999, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 434
pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-145-8, $16.95 US paper covers) is by Judith M.
Fertig, who has written extensively about the agriculture and local
culinary traditions of the US midwest. It was originally published in
1999 as part of the America Cooks series, and this is a straight
reprint (the bibliography has not been updated, which is a shame). It
is a worthy collection of preps, with bits of lore accompanying each
recipe, and it had been nominated for several awards. It's arranged in
two columns, covering courses from apps to desserts, with extra
chapters on breads and breakfasts. Try dilly beer grilled brats,
roasted Italian sausage with peppers and potatoes, pan-fried chicken
with gravy, and the twice-baked morel-stuffed potatoes. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no table of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 

21. BAKING BY FLAVOUR (John Wiley & Sons, 2002, 2011, 567 pages, ISBN
978-1-118-16967-4, $24.99 US paper covers) is by Lisa Yockelson, a
cookbook author and journalist. It was originally published in 2002 and
subsequently won an IACP Award. This is the paperback reprint, complete
with a ten-year old bibliography. Nevertheless, the return of this book
to print is still an occasion. She deals with flavour principles,
emphasizing the judicious and selective use of such as coconut,
peanuts, rum, ginger, blueberry, banana, almonds, etc. – about 19 in
all. There is a chapter for each. For example, under caramel, there is
caramel chip cake, butterscotch oatmeal cookies, butterscotch pecan
bars, caramel basting sauce, and turtle squares. Volume measurements
are used, and as well, preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 86.
 
 
 
 
 
22. TEXAS HOME COOKING; 400 terrific and comforting recipes full of
big, bright flavors and loads of down-home goodness (Harvard Common
Press, 1993, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 584 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-059-8,
$18.95 US paper covers) is by Cheryl and Bill Jamison who have written
two James Beard Book Award winners. It was originally published in
1993, and here it is back as a straight reissued reprint. Sadly, the
bibliography has not been brought up to date, and there's mostly a 20
year gap between the list and now. However, as part of the America
Cooks series, the two-columned book covers all the basics of Texas BBQ,
Tex-Mex food, chili, beans and football food. Hearty food indeed. It's
arranged by ingredient, with separate chapters on steak, poultry, game,
fish, seafood, breakfasts, desserts, and sides. Try South Texas venison
stew, sweet-sour kraut salad, popeye noodles, onion bread pudding, hot
kohl, and sausage upside-down cornbread. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents. Quality/price rating: 85.
 

23. MAGICAL MEALS MADE EASY (Gibbs Smith, 2011, 328 pages, ISBN 978-1-
4236-2363-2, $24.99 US hard covers) is a hard bound reprint of four
"101 Ways With" cookbooks, written by Stephanie Ashcraft, Donna Kelly,
and Toni Patrick who collectively have written dozens of these kinds of
books. So this reprint covers 101 Ways With Canned Soup, 101 Ways with
Mac 'n' Cheese, and Meatballs, and Canned Biscuits. So there are 404
preps here, emphasizing the quick and convenient meals for harried
families. You'll find pork chops and potatoes, slow-cooked potatoes and
sausage, macaroni cake, Christmas stew, cheesy triangles, and Caesar
meatball kabobs. But only four recipes using Velveeta cheese.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. There's an all-inclusive
index as a bonus. Quality/price index: 80.
 
 
 
24. NEW ENGLAND HOME COOKING; 350 recipes from town and country, land
and sea, hearth and home (Harvard Common Press, 1999, 2011; distr. T.
Allen, 652 pages, ISBN 978-1-55832-757-3, $18.95 US paper covers) is by
Brooke Dojny, a Beard Award-winning food writer who lives in Maine.
She's authored over a dozen cookbooks, many dealing with New England.
It was originally published in 1999 as The New England Cookbook, and
here it is back as a straight reissued reprint. Sadly, the bibliography
has not been brought up to date, and there's mostly a 10 year gap
between the list and now. However, as part of the America Cooks series,
it does celebrate the regional cooking of Down East and the rest of New
England. The range (and the arrangement) is from soups to desserts,
with chapters on breads and preserves. True Yankee classics include
North End clams casino, Wellfleet oysters on the half-shell, Maine-
style molasses baked yellow-eyes, New England Cobb salad, Shaker
whipped winter squash with Cape Cod cranberries, and Beach House
blueberry cobbler. There are also lots of fish and game preps, as well
as cider and cheese. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Quality/price rating: 85.
 

25. THE APPLE A DAY COOKBOOK (Nimbus Publishing, 1993, 2011, 219 pages,
ISBN 978-1-55109-858-6, $16.95 CAD soft covers) is by Janet Reeves, a
cookbook author. It was originally published in 1993. There's no
evidence of what's new, but the layout has changed with a re-setting of
the type. It's been 18 years since the book was published, but apples
are a pretty stable commodity, and there was no bibliography or
statistical table to update. Recipes are timeless, sourced from all
over the world, with many from PEI, Reeves' home (she says that there
are 20 varieties of apples in PEI). The wide range includes all
courses. Mains include pork dishes (a natural affinity for apples),
plus some apple preps with chicken, curried steak, and an apple-scallop
bake. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents, possibly
left from the 1993 edition. With one or two recipes on a page, there
should be close to 365 preps here. The index is arranged by food
category (e.g., muffins) that is bolded. Quality/price rating: 89.
 
 
 
26. KNEADLESSLY SIMPLE; fabulous, fuss-free, no-knead breads (John
Wiley
& Sons, 2009, 2011, 210 pages, ISBN 978-1-118-16943-8, $19.99 US paper
covers) is by Nancy Baggett, a food writer known principally for her
dessert cookbooks (one was a Beard winner). It was originally published
in 2009, and this is a straight reprint at a $5 reduction. Here she
riffs off of Jim Lahey's successful no-knead slow-rise French bread
recipe as captured by Mark Bittman (October, 2006, New York Times) by
extending the concept to all kinds of yeast breads. Lahey's was not the
first, but it seemed to be the most popular as evidenced by its spread
through the Internet. Baggett has made changes, such as using ice water
and refrigeration to slow down the biga. The 75 recipes here are a boon
to harried cooks and bakers everywhere. The secret to good bread
making, whether you knead or not, is simply a long, slow rise. You'll
only need one bowl, one spoon, some simple steps to follow, and minimal
cleanup. What you will get is artisanal bread that is thick, crusty,
with moderately sized holes in the crumb. Her details and instructions
are precise, with a range of rising times to suit your own schedule.
And of course, she has a troubleshooting section. It is worth the
effort to read about how to convert your favourite old bread recipe
into the newer mode, for then you can convert most anything. There is a
32 page section on "easiest ever yeast breads", followed by specific
chapters on American favourites, Old World classics, multi-grain and
gluten-free breads, and sweet breads. She believes that the best yeast
for the slow rise is bread machine yeast because it does not need to be
re-hydrated; don't use cake or compressed yeast. The basic technique
takes nine steps, and is explained on pages 1 to 3. Each prep here
usually has variations: cheddar bread; farmhouse potato bread with dill
and olives; English muffin loaves; crusty yeasted cornbread; challah.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there is no table of metric equivalents. The emphasis in the book
is on "knowing the rules before breaking them", which I wholeheartedly
agree with, but may rub some people the wrong way in these permissive
times. Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 

Sunday, March 18, 2012

MORE INTERESTING WINES RECENTLY TASTED...

MORE INTERESTING WINES RECENTLY TASTED...
 
9. Tokaji Yellow Muscat 2010 Puklus Cellars Hungary (+46508 Vintages,
$14.95 retail, 750 mL, Vintages January): related to Muscat Blanc, from
older vines, done up in Late Harvest style, with that peachy
complexity, medium-bodied, but with lemons and pineapple acidity on the
longer finish. Floral aromatics. 12% ABV, a bit less this year. Serve
with later courses (fruity mains, salads, cheeses, off-dry desserts).
10, Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Maipo
(+275594 Vintages, $19.95 retail): offers immense value, with its deep
black fruit (cherry-berry), vanilla, toast, some anise, very French
like. 5% Cabernet Franc added, 14.5% ABV, aged 14 months in mixed-use
oak barrels, ready to consume now. All the grapes come form 15-year-old
low yield vines of Alto Jahuel in Maipo.
11. Rodney Strong Vineyards Chardonnay Reserve Russian River Valley
Sonoma 2009 ($34.95 b consignment, Mark Anthony): with 14.5% ABV, this
baked apple and vanilla-driven white leaves a long, buttery finish.
Lees stirring has promoted creaminess. There is something here for all
Chardonnay lovers, or at least for those who dislike stainless steel.
Barrel fermentation in French oak (one-quarter new), all malolactic,
and 13 months aging.
12. Rodney Strong Vineyards Chardonnay Sonoma County 2009 ($20.95
Vintages, +226936): not quite as intense as the Reserve, but then not
quite as expensive. Only 60% has been barrel fermented, and then aged 4
months in US and French oak. Balance is stainless fermentation; 70% of
finished wine undergoes malolactic. There's orchard fruit and some
sprightly wood tones of vanilla and spices. 13.5% ABV, good first
course wine. 560 cases available.
13. Rodney Strong Vineyards Merlot Sonoma County 2009 ($19.95, Vintages
+497933): one of Rodney Young's Sonoma County series, line priced at
about $20. Two years in French and US oak barrels leans to sufficient
levels of dark fruit (plums, blueberries, black currants) but also some
herbiness to pique the inevitable Merlot softness. Another good first
course wine. 600 cases available.
14. Tyrrell's Wines Rufus Stone McLaren Vale Shiraz 2009 ($19.95,
+542100 Vintages): excellent, graceful shiraz, aged in US oak (30% new)
for a year and a half. 14.5% ABV, twist top. "Rufus Stone" is the name
Tyrrell's uses for its non-Hunter Valley wines. Here, their Willunga
Vineyard has 35-year old shiraz vines. A good mix of fruit (ripe
cherries, plums) with vanilla and chocolate tones. The tannins suggest
more aging, but currently give it structure and length for a main
course. 560 cases available.
15. A. Metz Helfrich Gewurztraminer 2010 Alsace ($18.95, +169748
Vintages): balancing acidity is the key here, with MVC touches of
roses, mango, spicy finish, and fruit on the mid-palate. At 12.5% ABV,
it is versatile, a bit lighter than other contemporary Gewurztraminers,
but more off-dry and ideal with suggested curries and tagines. Twist
top. 220 cases available.
16. [yellow tail] Shiraz Reserva Limited Release 2006 Barossa: created
in celebration of the company's tenth anniversary in 2011, now
available in a few cases in Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Nova Scotia and
Newfoundland. Multiple gold winner, 13.5% ABV. The commemorative bottle
version, which I served to a large dinner party for comment, was in a
nice presentation package. The regular bottling runs about $35 – 45
outside Ontario. Expect a whack of fruit and the Barossa tarriness,
needs more time but came around after an hour of being opened and
swirled.

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 17, 2012

WORLD WINE WATCH (LCBO VINTAGES TIP SHEET) FOR MARCH 17, 2012
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
By DEAN TUDOR, Gothic Epicures Writing deantudor@deantudor.com.
Creator of Canada's award-winning wine satire site at
http://fauxvoixvincuisine.blogspot.com. My Internet compendium
"Wines, Beers and Spirits of the Net" is a guide to thousands of news
items and RSS feeds, plus references to wines, beers and spirits, at
www.deantudor.com since 1994. My tastings are based on MVC (Modal
Varietal Character); ratings are QPR (Quality-to-Price Ratio). Prices
are LCBO retail. Only my top rated wines are here. NOTE: The LCBO does
NOT put out all of the wines of the release for wine writers or product
consultants. Corked wines are not normally available for a re-tasting.
 
TOP VALUE WHITE WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Henry of Pelham Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2010 VQA Short Hills
Bench: rich and ripe, wood integration produces creaminess in finish, a
great Ontario chardonnay, 13.5% ABV. +268343, $19.95, QPR: 91.
2. Simi Chardonnay 2009 Sonoma County: deep concentrated flavours of
butterscotch and toast, a restaurant wine in the US. 13.5% ABV.
+673806, $19.95, QPR: 90.
3. Las Perdices Torrontes 2010 Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza: classic aromatic
and off-dry flavours, MVC all the way, affordable. +267823, $12.95, QP:
89.
4 Lawson's Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Marlborough: typical kiwi
savvy, but with a slightly different tang of fruit on the finish.
+214460, $17.95, QPR: 89.
5. Oak Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2009 WO Elgin South Africa: no oak here,
but textbook style kiwi-like savvy, affordable, twist top, 13% ABV.
+263947, $15.95, QPR: 89.
6. Domaine Christophe Camu Chablis 2009: orchard frit, long finish,
best unoaked chardonnays are usually from Chablis, 12% ABV. Affordable.
+268532, $18.95.
7. Leira Albarino 2010 DO Rias Baixas: good price for such an aromatic
wine from the albarino variety. +115816, $16.95, QPR: 89.
 
TOP VALUE RED WINES under $20 or so.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
1. Villa Mt. Eden Antique Vines Grande Reserve Zinfandel 2007: with no
standards for the words "Old Vines", Villa Mt. Eden has moved on to
"Antique Vines", with pre-Columbian plantings. Lots of mocha and smoke,
good development. 14.5% ABV. +256719, $19.95, QPR: 89.
2. Manos Negras Malbec 2007 Uco Valley Mendoza: fruit driven style,
plenty of cherries, longer length. +271205, $14.5, QPR: 89.
3. Chateau Le Peyrat 2009 Cotes de Bordeaux Castillon: very pleasing,
soft merlot tones, spices, longer engaging finish. 14.5% ABV. +171090,
$14.95, QPR: 90.
4. Maz d'Auzieres Les Eclats 2009 Coteaux du Languedoc: well-worth
tasting with a complex finish, about 70% syrah, 13.5% ABV. +271742,
$16.95, QPR: 89.
5. Valle Reale Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2007: good character, palate is
mouth filling, long Italianate finish. 13.5% ABV. +216408, $17.95, QPR:
89.
6. Piccini Chianti Classico Riserva 2007: a hidden treasure of dried
fruit and figs. +134791, $18.95, QPR: 90.
7. Campolargo Vinha do Putto 2009 Barraida: North American appeal,
juicy, off-dry but with a lingering finish. +267971, $13.95, QPR: 89.
8. Quinta Nova Pomares 2009 Douro: juicy and surprisingly ready now,
good tannins for food. +214007, $16.95, QPR: 89.
9. Bodega del Abad Dom Bueno Crianza 2001 Bierzo: aging very nicely,
thank you, well-respected wine at 14% ABV, and a fab price. +244699,
$14.95, QPR: 89.
10. Bod. Olarra Cerro Anon Reserva 2005 Rioja: outstanding wine at an
outstanding price. 14% ABV. +114306, $18.95, QPR: 91.
11. Senorio del Aguila Gran Reserva 2001 Carinena: another 2001 wine
for your consideration, delicious complexity, still needs time to open
up and flower. Some oak resolved vanilla. 13.5% ABV. +269530, $19.95,
QPR: 90.
 
VALUE: "RESTAURANT READY" or "BRING YOUR OWN WINE BOTTLE" over $20
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Restaurants should consider offering these FINE VALUE wines at a $10
markup over retail; the wines are READY to enjoy right NOW. Consumers
should buy these wines to bring to restaurants with corkage programs.
 
1. Flat Rock The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2010 VQA Twenty Mile Bench,
+1552, $24.95 retail.
2. Rodney Strong Chardonnay 2009 Sonoma County, +226936, $20.95.
3. Domaine Chanson Savigny-Les-Beaune Hauts Marconnets 1er Cru 2009,
+265033, $32.95.
4. Domaine Rodet Chateau de Mercey Mercurey 2009, +265058, $22.95.
5. Hidden Bench Estate Pinot Noir 2009 VQA Beamsville Bench, +274753,
$38.20.
6. Geyser Peak Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Alexander Valley Sonoma County,
+343467, $21.95.
7. Treana Red 2008 Paso Robles, +11221, $39.95.
8. Yalumba Shiraz/Viognier 2008 Eden Valley South Australia, +524926,
$21.95.
9. Yalumba The Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 Coonawarra, +473645,
$53.95.
10. Chateau Tour Baladoz 2006 St. Emilion Grand Cru, +244087, $28.95.
11, Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva 2007, +512384, $29.95.
12. Mocali Brunello di Montalcino 2006, +64956, $43.95.
13. Baron de Ley Gran Reserva 2001 Rioja, +642496, $29.95.

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Feb 29/12: Authentic Wine and Spirits agency tasting

The Date and Time: Wednesday, February 29, 2012 3:30 PM to 7 PM
The Event: Authentic Wine & Spirits Merchants mini-portfolio tasting
The Venue: Fine Wine Reserve
The Target Audience: wine media and Fine Wine Reserve clients.
The Availability/Catalogue: all wines are available via Vintages or
Consignment, or even VSO.
The Quote/Background: It was crowded and hot but people knew what they
were doing, and kept close to each other while confined. I felt no
pressure.
The Wines: There were three expensive single-malts and a grappa that I
did not taste.
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Masi Riserva di Costasera Amarone Classico, $69.95 Consignment
-Excelsus Castello Banfi 2007 +983916 $79.00 VSO
-Louis Roederer Brut Premier +268771 $67.95 Vintages Essential
-Vina Cobos Chardonnay Felino Mendoza 2010 +119099 $19.95 Vintages
-Ornellaia +722470 $185.95 Vintages
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Masi Costasera Amarone 2007 +317057 $39.95
-Masi Serego Alighieri Valpolicella Dell'Anniversario Classico
Superiore 2008 +661306 $23.95 Vintages March
-Masi Osar 2003 Verona Red IGT +580233 $69.00 VSO
-Banfi Centine Toscana IGT +947440 $16.95 Vintages
-Banfi Chianti Classico Riserva 2007 +998328 $27.95 Vintages
-Banfi Brunello di Montalcino 2006 +378257 $59.95 Vintages
-Natura Carmenere 2010 +175091 $15.95 Vintages March
-Tasca D'Almerita Lamuri 2009 +568089 $17.95 Vintages March
*** GOOD -- Three Stars (85 – 87 in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Masi Brolo di Campofiorin 2007 +976092 $24.95 Vintages
-Masi Toar 2007 +342444 $21.95 Vintages
-Vigne Regali Principessa Gavi 2010 +250696 $18.95 Vintages
The Food: basic cheeses and breads
The Downside: for me, I was at the tasting after watching a long,
depressing play, and before a dinner.
The Upside: a great chance to taste Masi and Banfi.
The Contact Person: aearle@awsm.ca
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness/Execution (numerical grade):87.
 

Saturday, March 10, 2012

sOME NEW, interesting cookbooks

RUHLMAN'S TWENTY; 20 techniques, 100 recipes, a cook's manifesto
(Chronicle Books, 2011, 368 pages, ISBN 978-0-8118-7643-8, $40 US hard
covers) is by Michael Ruhlman, who has been associated with Thomas
Keller (French Laundry) as a co-author of many food books. Indeed,
there is also advanced log rolling here with such as Keller, Alton
Brown (Iron Chef), and Dorie Greenspan. Not that there is anything
wrong with that; the original subtitle was "the ideas and techniques
that will make you a better cook". It is also festooned with over 250
photographs, mainly for techniques to illustrate the twenty topics. The
book is arranged by technique, and includes salt, water, onion, acid,
egg, butter, dough, batter, sugar, sauce, braise, poach, grill, fry,
etc. There are no surprises here which make the book good for a basic
drill beginner. But there is also an amazing amount of depth, which
makes the book useful for intermediate learners. Ruhlman explains the
hows and whys of each technique and then gives recipes to illustrate
his points. All courses are covered, from soups to desserts.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric (mostly) and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
There's a primer on equipment and planning, as well as sources for more
information or products. You could also check www.ruhlman.com for kinds
of additional material and for updates.
Audience and level of use: intermediate cooks
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: fish tacos with guacamole;
grilled spring veggies; grilled pear salad; braised lamb shanks with
lemon confit; cold snap pea soup; Dutch oven bread; savory bread
pudding; pastrami short ribs.
The downside to this book: I just wish it wasn't so heavy, almost 4
pounds of clay-based paper.
The upside to this book: there is a handy ribbon book marker.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 

4. THE INTOLERANT GOURMET; glorious food without gluten & lactose
(Artisan, 2011; distr. T. Allen, 240 pages, ISBN 978-1-579765-1, $29.95
US hard covers) is by Barbara Kafka, an award-winning cookbook author
and free-lance writer who was a recipient of the James Beard Foundation
Lifetime Achievement Award. She has a collection of some 300 preps
here, with sections on breakfast, hors d'oeuvre, apps, pastas,
risottos, soups, salads – right through to desserts. Quinoa gets enough
space for 10 recipes. Preparations have their ingredients listed in
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those who need to be free of gluten and
lactose.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: although they are unrelated
genetically, lactose intolerance and gluten intolerance often occur in
the same person. They can vary in evidencing their presence or
intensity over time, but they do not disappear. Gluten intolerance has
increased ten fold over the past decade; 60% of the North American
population cannot fully digest dairy.
The downside to this book: the closing chapter on starches might have
been more useful at the front of the book.
The upside to this book: there's a good section on polenta.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
 
5. COOK WITHOUT A BOOK; meatless meals (Rodale, 2011, 276 pages, ISBN
978-1-60529-176-5, $32.50 US hard covers) is by Pam Anderson, a
bestselling author of a half-dozen award winning (or nominated)
cookbooks, including "How to Cook Without a Book", one of my faves.
Here she tackles vegetarian and vegan foods in about 250 basic meal
templates, styled as her earlier book. She opens with breakfast foods
(she has a liberal definition for the first meal of the day): oats,
grits, wraps, pizzas, potatoes and eggs, chipped veggies on toast,
pancakes, and sweet scones and bran muffins. This is the first quarters
of the book. Then begins, "fun food the rest of the day", with chapters
on salads, soups, stews, sandwiches, afternoon eggs and potatoes, and
some quick idea on fast food (Italian, Asian, Mexican). But of course,
her use of cheese and eggs does limit its usefulness for vegans. In
fact, if there is an overarching philosophy here, it is that we should
all eat less meat, and here are some nifty preps for us. Preparations
have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is
no table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: vegetarians, and to a lesser extent, vegans.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: a master formula for skillet
potatoes and eggs (which also calls for varying amounts of feta or goat
cheese, or swiss and cheddar, plus accompanying spices and herbs for
variations); savoury scones with variations on cheeses and flavourings;
grain and legume salads which are dairy-free.
The downside to this book: there may not be enough here to interest
vegans, yet the book's PR info on the dust jacket is directed to
vegans.
The upside to this book: variety is supposed to be the spice of life,
and it certainly is with food. She advocates being a part-time vegan or
vegetarian if you do not want the commitment.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 

6. POULET; more than 50 remarkable meals that exalt the honest chicken
(Chronicle Books, 2011, 240 pages, ISBN 978-0-8116-7969-9, $27.50 US
hard covers) is by Cree LeFavour, cookbook author (The Steak Book,
2008). Overall, there are 150 preps here for the 50 meals, which are
categorized by flavour profiles or regions. First up is the American
chicken meal, followed by the "Bistro" chicken (mostly French, mainly
European), Latin chicken, East Asian, South Asian, and Africa
(including the Middle East). It is an interesting concept, and it
works. Each meal, such as the Sorrel Chicken Troisgros, serves 4, and
usually calls for a 1 to 2 kilo chicken, the appropriate seasoning, and
some veggie or salad or bread accompaniment (no dessert). Here, the
veggie is pea puree. This chicken prep has been adapted from Troisgros'
signature salmon plate. Many recipes in the book only call for thighs,
which are actually the most flavourful part of the chicken.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of equivalents. All the
classics appear to be here, including Sengalese chicken, saffron
chicken, chicken in parchment, and chicken pot pie. She even has some
wine, cocktail and beer suggestions.
Audience and level of use: home cooks looking for a routine but with
different ingredients.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roadside chicken tacos;
chankonabe; grilled thighs with BBQ; chicken-fennel meatballs; truffled
roast chicken; chicken-vegetable kadhi.
The downside to this book: I could not find a prep for chicken
cacciatore. Was this an oversight?
The upside to this book: a chicken for every week of the year, with a
turkey at Thanksgiving and Christmas?
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 

7. THE BIG HANDOUT (Rodale, 2011, 288 pages, ISBN 978-1-60961-113-2,
$24.99 US hard covers) is by Thomas M. Kostigen, a co-author of The
Green Book. The subtitle says it all: "how government subsidies and
corporate welfare corrupt the world we live in and wreak havoc on our
food bills."  He tries to give us an expose of how subsidies pervert
our North American way of living, making us fatter, poorer and
unhealthy. There are a couple of references to Canada (none to the
European Union) which show us in a more favourable light, but just
barely. And of course it is all about Big Ag and protectionism. There's
a lot here to digest, but none of it is new. Government subsidies seem
to have been around forever (think sugar and corn lobbies). Currently,
the most heavily subsidized commodities are cotton, wheat, corn, soy,
and oil: over $200 billion per year. We end us spending good money for
bad business practices. He ends the book with chapters suggesting what
we can do to make change, and what the world would look like without
subsidies. At the back, there's a sources list and an index.
Audience and level of use: conspiracy theory readers, those with low
blood pressure.
Some interesting or unusual facts: subsidies are government grants to
private businesses if it is advantageous to the public. Subsidies
enable businesses to actually charge MORE than a free market system,
and can create goods that aren't even produced for sale (kept off the
market). It is all artificial pricing.
The downside to this book: he doesn't cover the EU, where the
situations can be even worse.
The upside to this book: good writing style that convinces.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
 
8. THE GOLDEN-BRISTLED BOAR; last ferocious beast of the forest
(University of Virginia Press, 2011; distr. by Scholarly Book Services,
183 pages, ISBN 978-0-8139-3103-6, $22.95 US hard covers) is by Jeffrey
Greene, an award-winning poet who has written books about living in
Burgundy and the Bamberger Texas restoration project. Here, he returns
to Burgundy. He bought a place in northern Burgundy that was one of the
most densely populated boar areas in Europe. Following the gift of a
side of boar from a neighbor and meeting a boar-hunting party, he began
to collect information about boars. Boars seem to have no natural
enemies, except for man. They are regarded as pests in many cultures,
and throughout history have been thusly portrayed. They cause over
14,000 car accidents a year in France alone. I used to know a chef in
Menton who loved hunting boars but always dreaded having to carry one
down a mountainous ravine. Greene delves into boar lore, and travels to
Sardinia, Corsica, Tuscany, and the US South in pursuit of stories. He
interviews museum curators, scientists, hunters, chefs, chateau owners,
and others. He's even got some wide-ranging recipes such as roast loin,
jabali (Spanish adobo), Inoshishi botan nabe hot pot,
Wildschweinschnitzel from German immigrants in Texas, Cinghiale
(Italian boar ragu), and Burgundian sanglier. These preparations have
their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no
table of metric equivalents. Unfortunately for us in Ontario, all wild
boar sold here is farmed, so the flavour has been muted.
Audience and level of use: wild animal lovers, culinary historians.
Some interesting or unusual facts: In England, indigenous boars were
rendered extinct in the thirteenth century, but many escapees from
boar-breeding farms have brought them back. Natural England, an
advisory board, recognizes the boar as indigenous and wishes to manage
the population.
The downside to this book: there is the occasional illustration, but
the book could use more.
The upside to this book: a good, solid, single ingredient/product book
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 

9. CRAZY ABOUT CAKES; more than 150 delectable recipes for every
occasion (Sterling, 2011, 370 pages, ISBN 978-1-4027-6914-6, $17.95 US
paper covers) is by Krystina Castella, who has also written a whole
crazy series: "Crazy About Cupcakes", "Crazy About Cookies" – and now
"Cakes". It is a useful book if you like to bake AND decorate. Many
people do. There is something every occasion here (birthdays, brunches,
holidays, weddings, and the like), plus everyday cakes. There are also
some modern interpretations of classics that contain less fat, fewer
calories, and more natural ingredients. There are also some savoury
cakes and some fusion cakes too. She has plenty of variations too.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements,
but there are tables of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: those who like to bake and decorate.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: peanut sesame raspberry
roll; banana agave cakes; chocolate fried twinkies; cream-filled
cupcakes; chocolate chip cranberry roll; butterscotch and sea salt
bundts; meringue layers with marshmallow filling; jalapeno cake with
molasses.
The downside to this book: volume measures are used, but I prefer
scaling by weight. It is more exact.
The upside to this book: good looking photos of decorations.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 

10. THE BONNE FEMME COOK BOOK; simple, splendid food that French women
cook every day (Harvard Common Press, 2011, 420 pages, ISBN 978-1-
55832-749-8, $24.95 US hard covers) is by Wini Moranville, who writes a
monthly wine column and reviews restaurants in and around Des Moines,
IA. She's also a free lance writer. Log rolling comes from Dorie
Greenspan and Amanda Hesser. Here she deconstructs French cooking for
North American kitchens by presenting what she has learned after twenty
years of summering in France. It's the bonne femme housewife style,
which she extols at www.chezbonnefemme.com. This current book is a
collection of some 250 preps, done up in the French family style of
dining (a style, I might add, that seems to be disappearing). Her book
ranges from appetizers (amuse-bouches of hard sausages, olives, nuts
and cheese) and cocktails to salads, soups, the concept of saute and
deglaze (a meal in 30 minutes or less), braises-stews-roasts,
casseroles and pasta, side dishes, savouries, eggs and cheese, and
desserts. Still, she mentions that she cannot recall ever being served
home-baked desserts in French homes. "That's not to say that French
women don't bake, it's just that they don't have to." – there are many
pastry shops in France. She uses three cheeses in cooking: goat, sheep,
and French Gruyere (Comte); the latter tastes better than Swiss
Gruyere. Preparations have their ingredients listed in avoirdupois
volume measurements, but there is a table of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: the harried North American home cook
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: In her book, she mostly
offers the kinds of desserts that French women would bake at home:
crêpes, upside-down cakes, a pear tart tatin, a fruit crumble, crème
brulee, clafouti, Alsatian apple tart, and chocolate pound cake.
Vermouth-Braised Chicken with Black Olives and Prosciutto; Moroccan-
Spiced Chicken Braise Ce Soir; Poulet Bijoutière (chicken–braised with
garlic, wine, pomegranate juice and a touch of currant jelly);
Choucroute Garnie; Normandy Pork Chops; Tuna Steaks Braised with
Tomatoes, Olives, and Fennel.
The downside to this book: call me a snob, but I'd still like to read
French recipe titles in addition to English language ones.
The upside to this book: a good idea for a book – fast food French
style.
Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
11. ECO-INNOVATORS; sustainability in Atlantic Canada (Nimbus
Publishing, 2011, 199 pages, ISBN 978-1-55109-863-0, $22.95 CAD paper
covers) is by Chris Benjamin, currently the "Sustainable City"
columnist for The Coast, a Halifax newspaper. He is also an awards-
nominated novelist. Here he profiles some of Atlantic Canada's
innovative sustainability leaders: entrepreneurs, educators, activists,
farmers, and fishermen – about three dozen in all. As Benjamin says,
each person featured in this book has a different idea about what it
means to be green. But they all have respect for natural resources and
they all want to work communally. Chapters are by themes, with
recycling, reusing, choosing a home, using household cleaners, lawns,
transportation, and the work place. For us in the food and wine area,
there are interesting profiles on green gourmets choosing sustainable
foods, such as David and Edith Ling of Fair Acres Farms, Richard
Wetmore of Speerville Flour Mill, Sean Gallagher of Terroir-Local
Source Catering, Steve Law and Evelyn Jones of Sunroot Farm, and Chris
Hudson of Off the Hook fishery. There's a bibliography for further
reading, but no index. Quality/Price Rating: 88.
 
 
 
12. WHOLE BEAST BUTCHERY; the complete visual guide to beef, lamb, and
pork (Chronicle Books, 2011, 239 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-0059-3, $40 US
hard covers) is by Ryan Farr, chef and butcher. He and his wife founded
4505 Meats in San Francisco in 2009, an artisanal meat company, where
he also teaches butchery and charcuterie. Birgit Binns assisted him;
she's an author or co-author of about two dozen cookbooks. As we all
know, meat has been back for some time, but it takes awhile for
publishers to get manuscripts/ideas and then produce a book – about two
years. This is a basic nose-to-tail book, with all the basics in
techniques and more than 500 photos. It's a bones and muscle book, with
lots of white fat in each picture. There's a primer on tools and
techniques, meat storage and handling, plus some 14 master recipes
scaled from 2 to 20 people. Preparations have their ingredients listed
in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric
equivalents.
Audience and level of use: home cooks who want DIY butchery, and others
who want to know about the process.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: beef tongue pastrami; onion-
braised beef neck; merguez sausage; charred scallion pork sausage; pork
jowl and clams; pork belly and garbanzo soup.
The downside to this book: the beef section is admirable, but I'm not
so sure how to tackle a cow in my house. Maybe veal. Lamb and pigs can
be done at home.
The upside to this book: good reference material.
Quality/Price Rating: 89.
 
 
 
13. THE GOOD HOUSEKEEPING TEST KITCHEN COOKBOOK; essential recipes for
every home cook (Hearst Books, 2011, 690 pages, ISBN 978-1-58816-905-1,
$29.95 US ring binder) has been coordinated by Susan Westmoreland from
the Test Kitchen. The group performs 1700 taste tests every year, from
preps that have been triple-tested to make sure the recipe works. This
is GH's first ring-binder book. Fourteen chapters include breakfast,
brunch, stews, soups, meats, pasta, casseroles, meatless, salads, and
desserts, 375 recipes in all. There are tips and advice, photos,
techniques, and nutritional analyses. Preps are coded with icons for
lo-cal, heart-healthy, 30-minute meals, make aheads, or slow-cooker
recipes. There are even smartphone tags that link to 35 GH cooking
videos on the web.
Audience and level of use: general home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: the turkey with roasted
apples and pan gravy recipe has a link to a video for "Best Do-Ahead
Gravy", as well as an explanation of wild turkey, thawing instructions,
and shopping tips.
The downside to this book: the ring binder is useful for detaching the
recipe from the book, but there may be a pilferage problem in stores
and libraries.
The upside to this book: there's other material here, such as setting a
table, food and wine matches, an entertaining guide, ingredient
substitutions, freezer guidelines, and handy charts.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 
14. A TASTE OF THE MARITIMES; local, seasonal recipes the whole year
round (Nimbus Publishing, 2011, 150 pages, ISBN 978-1-55109-869-2,
$22.95 CAD soft covers) is by Elizabeth Bailey, a food and gardening
writer with a passion for the Maritimes. She says that over 90 percent
of food eaten in the Maritimes today is imported. But there are many
local foods in supermarkets, farmers markets, CSAs, co-ops, and natural
food stores. And of course, they are seasonally available. Most of the
preps can be used anywhere in North America, although fiddleheads,
Dragon's Breath cheese, and various seafood might be limited. The
arrangement is by season, with two chapters for summer (early and
late), about 20 for each. Interspersed are profiles of Speerville Flour
Mill, Galloping Cows Fine Foods, Fox Hill Cheese House, Canadian
Organic Maple Company, and several others. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table
of metric equivalents.
Audience and level of use: Maritime food lovers, seasonal food lovers.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: scape and ginger bisque;
fiddleheads and bacon; inside-out Dragon burgers; heritage bean chili;
late summer rum and fruit salad.
The downside to this book: while a nifty basic book, it covers a larger
range than merely local Maritime foods.
The upside to this book: the profiles illuminate the foods of the
Maritimes.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 
 
 

15. HANDHELD PIES; dozens of pint-size sweets & savories (Chronicle
Books, 2011, 143 pages, ISBN 978-1-4521-0214-6, $19.95 US hardbound) is
by Sarah Billingsley, a cookbook editor, and Rachel Wharton, a Beard
Award-winning food writer and editor. These are all small treats, eaten
with one hand, often also called "two biters" – a tart that can be
consumed in two bites, and perfect (for the most part) at cocktail
parties or other social, walkabout events. Or, take some to lunch.
There are about 40 preps here, plus variations, arranged by format,
such as free-form pies, structured pies, and jar pies. At the end there
is a section on pie crusts, which are referred to in the recipe (cream,
cheese crust, butter crust, chocolate crumb, lard crust, and more.
There is also a run down on the more common fruit fillings. Many
chapters have the occasional profile on pie businesses, such as The
Original Fried Pie Shop. It's a great idea, and the only thing lacking
is the use of any gluten-free adaptations. It isn't even mentioned,
although they have almost a page on using locally milled grains.
Preparations have their ingredients listed in both metric and
avoirdupois measurements, but there is no table of metric equivalents.
The weight measurements are scaled in the metric, but not in the
avoirdupois.
Audience and level of use: home cooks who entertain.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: bacon, egg and cheese
breakfast pie; orange marmalade-mascarpone pop tarts; mozzarella,
tomato and prosciutto pie; chicken chile relleno pie.
The downside to this book: the lack of gluten-free crusts.
The upside to this book: a nifty idea.
Quality/Price Rating: 87.
 

16. RUSTIC ITALIAN; simple, authentic recipes for everyday cooking
(Weldon Owen, 2011, 224 pages, ISBN 978-1-61628-165-6, $29.95 US hard
covers) is from Williams-Sonoma, authored by Domenica Marchetti, a food
writer specializing in casual Italian fare. This is her fourth such
cookbook. She's got about 100 simple preps, arranged by course from
antipasti, to soups and salads through to dolci. There's also a short
wine guide, a guide to salumi and cheeses, and an inventory of Italian
pantry staples. It's a classy book with first rate photography. But
while the recipe titles are in both Italian and English, only the
English titles are indexed, which is annoying. Preparations have their
ingredients listed in both metric and avoirdupois measurements, but
there is no table of metric equivalents. Recipes all come with Italian
wine suggestions.
Audience and level of use: Italian food lovers, basic home cooks.
Some interesting or unusual recipes/facts: roasted delicate squash with
sage; tomato tart with goat cheese; cavatelli with zucchini blossoms;
Tuscan-style steak with crispy potatoes; spicy sauteed kale and
chickpeas; ricotta and bittersweet chocolate crostata.
The downside to this book: there are many other books with the
classics.
The upside to this book: the photos are very appealing.
Quality/Price Rating: 85.
 

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

March 5 tasting of Ventisquero (Chile) wines

1. The Date and Time: Monday, March 5, 2012  2PM to 4:30PM

The Event: tasting of Vina Ventisquero (Chile) wines, represented by RKW Wine Imports in Ontario.

The Venue: LCBO Summerhill store, Kitchen Events room

The Target Audience: wine writers

The Availability/Catalogue: currently, there are two listings in Ontario at Vintages, a carmenere ($17.95) and a sauvignon blanc ($12.95). More will soon be available.

The Quote/Background: Felipe Tosso, the chief winemaker, gave background and presented a tasting of their premium wines, including the Grey line (usually priced at $13.95 for the reds), Pangea, Queulat Gran Reserva, and Vertice. Pangea and Vertice are made in partnership with John Duval of Australia.

The Wines:

 

**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vina Ventisquero Vertice Carmenere/Syrah 2007 Apalta Vyd, $29.95

-Vina Ventisquero Pangea Syrah 2007 Apalta Vyd, $50

 

***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (8890 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vina Ventisquero Queulat Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2011

-Vina Ventisquero Queulat Gran Reserva Pinot Noir 2010

-Vina Ventisquero Grey Merlot 2009, $13.95

-Vina Ventisquero Grey Syrah 2009

 

*** GOOD -- Three Stars (8587 in Quality/Price Rating terms):

-Vina Ventisquero Grey Chardonnay 2009 Block No. 7, $19.95

-Vina Ventisquero Heru Pinot Noir 2009

-Vina Ventisquero Grey Carmenere 2009, $13.95

-Vina Ventisquero Grey Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

 

The Food: appetizers and tapas were produced (shrimp and coriander rice rolls, pork corn buns, chicken phyllos, black bean empanadas, and delicious smoked salmon cakes. All came with a variety of dipping sauces.

The Contact Person: osantos@ventisquero.com; mbruni@rkwwineimports.ca

The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 89

 

Monday, March 5, 2012

Feb 27/12: Andrew Will Washington State wine tasting

The Time: Monday, February 27, 2012 1 PM to 4 PM
The Event: A tasting of Andrew Will Winery Washington State wines,
specializing in Bordeaux-styled blends.
The Venue: One Restaurant at Hazelton Hotel.
The Target Audience: private clients of Halpern Enterprises, the
Ontario agent.
The Availability/Catalogue: Three wines were shown, all available via
Consignment. A fourth wine, Andrew Will Sorella Horse Heaven Hills 2008
(about 72% CS), will be in an upcoming Classics Catalogue, priced at
about $90, with about 90 – 100 bottles for sale. It was not available
for sampling.
The Quote/Background: Robin Pollard from the winery poured my wine. She
answered all my queries about Andrew Will and Washington wine sales in
Canada. Andrew Will winery was started in 1989 by Chris Camarda, and
named after his son Will and nephew Andrew. He also makes a white wine
principally for winemaker dinners; it is not marketed.
The Wines:
**** BEST -- Four Stars (91+ in Quality/Price Rating terms):
-Andrew Will 2008 Champoux Vineyard (46% CS, 25% Merlot, 23% CF, 5%
Petit Verdot), currently a hard finish. $77
-Andrew Will 2007 Two Blondes Red Yakima (40% CS, 34% CF, 19% Merlot,
and 7% Malbec), much more juicy. $79
***1/2 BETTER -- Three and a Half Stars (88 – 90 in Quality/Price
Rating terms):
-Andrew Will 2007 Ciel du Cheval Red (45% CF, 40% Merlot, 15% CS),
ready ahead of the others. $69.
The Food: extra aged hard cheeses, including a divine blue, plus
appropriate breads.
The Downside: it was a quick trip, there were only three wines to
sample.
The Upside: there was plenty of room and the atmosphere was alive with
the chatter of knowledgeable buyers.
The Contact Person: deron@halpernwine.com; robin.pollard5@gmail.com
The Event's Marketing Effectiveness and Execution (numerical grade): 88